Stitch School: Catherine Wheels by Anna Nikipirowicz
In this Stitch School, I would like to show you how to make a two-colour Catherine wheel stitch. It is a very charming stitch that creates small pinwheels, which are far more visible when the pattern is worked in two colours. However, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t work the pattern in just one colour, the effect is more gentle but equally beautiful! There’s also no reason that you must limit yourself to only two colours, you can change colour as many times as you like!
Cluster – work [yrh, insert hook in st, draw up a loop, yrh, draw through 2 loops] over designated number of sts, yrh, draw through all loops on hook.
Ch – chain
Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US single crochet)
Miss (US skip) – omit st(es)
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
St(s) – stitch(es)
Tr (US dc) – treble (US double crochet)
WS – wrong side
Yrh – yarn around hook
The stitch is worked in double crochet, trebles and it uses the cluster technique. This involves working yarns around hook, inserting into stitches and pulling through two loops at the time over a directed number of stitches, then pulling through all loops on hook, this creates half of the wheel.
The Catherine Wheel starts on the WS row and unfortunately you cannot carry the different colour yarns with you up the side of work to use when needed as the colour change happens every two rows - it is therefore necessary to the break yarn, so I recommend weaving the ends at regular intervals to save the huge task at the end of the project.
Before we look at the pattern I would like to show you how to change colour in the neatest way.
1: When you are working your final stitch at the end of the row, stop at the last 2 loops on hook.
2: Grab the new yarn and finish the stitch with the new colour.
3: Take the tail of the new yarn and the old yarn and twist it once over the new yarn, ch 1 to lock.
4: Now you can continue working with your new colour.
This technique also works well if the last stitch at the end is a slip stitch - just work the slip stitch in the new yarn.
This stitch is worked over multiples of 10 + 6 (plus 1 for foundation chain)
For my sample I made 27 chains in colour A.
Row 1 (WS): 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, * miss 3 ch, 7 tr in next ch, miss 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch, rep from * to last 4 ch, miss 3 ch, 4 tr in last ch, turn.
Change to colour B
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 dc in first 2 tr, *ch 3, work 1 cluster over next 7 sts, ch 3, 1 dc in next 3 sts, rep from *to last 4 sts, ch 3, 1 cluster over last 4 sts, turn.
Half of the wheels are now complete.
Cluster worked over 7 sts, at the end you will pull through 8 loops on the hook.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 3 tr in first st, * miss 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 dc, miss 3 ch, 7 tr in loop that closed next cluster, rep from * and end by missing 3 ch and working 1 dc in the last 2 dc, turn.
The wheels are now complete:
Change to colour A
Row 4: ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), miss first st, 1 cluster over next 3 sts, *ch 3, 1 dc in next 3 sts, ch 3, 1 cluster over next 7 sts, rep from * and end with ch 3, 1 dc in next tr, 1 dc in top of 3 ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, 1 dc in next 2 dc, * miss ch 3, 7 tr in loop that closed next cluster, miss 3 ch, 1 dc in next 3 dc, rep from * and end with miss 3 ch, 4 tr in top of 3 ch, turn.
Steps 2 to 5 form the pattern, just keep repeating until you have the desired length.
Here's my sample, ending on row 4 of the pattern repeat: