Moonflower Dolman

Moonflower Dolman by Kiri FitzGerald

Garment Overview

The Moonflower Dolman is an advanced-level knitted sweater designed by independent designer Kiri FitzGerald. This pullover features a distinctive dolman silhouette with dropped sleeves that extend from shoulder to wrist. The sweater is available in five sizes, ranging from 37 inches to 51½ inches in finished bust circumference, making it suitable for a variety of body types and fit preferences.

Construction Method

This sweater employs a sideways construction technique, worked in two main pieces from the top of one sleeve to the top of the opposite sleeve. This approach creates a unique shaping opportunity and requires careful stitch management across the work. After the two main pieces are completed, the front and back sections are sewn together using mattress stitch or a similar seaming method. Following assembly, additional elements are picked up and worked in the round: the neckband, lower ribbing, and sleeve cuffs are all constructed using circular knitting needles, allowing for seamless finishing details.

Stitches and Techniques

The primary stitch used throughout the body of the Moonflower Dolman is stocking stitch (also called stockinette stitch), which creates a smooth, classic fabric with characteristic V-shaped columns on the right side. The ribbed sections—including the neckband, cuff ribbing, and lower body rib—provide elasticity and structure at the garment's edges. Advanced knitters will appreciate the complexity of managing the sideways construction, which requires attention to increases and decreases to shape the dolman sleeves and body properly. The pattern involves working in both flat and circular configurations, utilizing different needle styles for various sections of the garment.

Yarn and Materials

The Moonflower Dolman is designed for worsted weight yarn, also classified as aran weight. Yardage requirements range from approximately 960 meters (1050 yards) for the smallest size up to 1344 meters (1470 yards) for the largest size. The sample garment was knitted using Swans Island All American Collection, a premium blend of 75% USA Rambouillet wool and 25% USA alpaca. This yarn is supplied in 80-gram skeins with a yardage of 192 meters per skein, offering a luxurious fiber content that provides warmth, softness, and drape suitable for a fitted sweater design.

Needles and Notions

Construction requires multiple needle sizes and types:

• 4.5mm (US 7) circular knitting needles: Both 80cm and 40cm lengths are needed for the initial sideways construction and for working smaller circumferences
• 4.5mm (US 7) double-pointed needles: Used as an alternative for knitting small circumferences in the round, particularly useful for sleeve cuffs and neckband shaping
• 5mm (US 8) knitting needles: The larger needle size used for the main fabric to achieve proper gauge
• 5mm (US 8) double-pointed needles: An alternative option for working small circumferences in the round with the larger needle size

Additional notions include three stitch markers for tracking pattern repeats and construction points, and a tapestry needle for seaming the front and back pieces together and weaving in yarn ends.

Gauge and Sizing

The pattern specifies a gauge of 15 stitches and 23 rows over 10 centimeters (4 inches) when working stocking stitch on the larger 5mm (US 8) needles. Achieving accurate gauge is essential for this advanced project, as the sideways construction method means that gauge affects both the width and length of the finished garment. Five finished sizes are provided: 94cm (37"), 104cm (41"), 114cm (45"), 121cm (47½"), and 131cm (51½") bust circumference.