Hawthorn

Hawthorn Cardigan by Marie Wallin

What is Being Made

Hawthorn is a colorwork cardigan from the Wildwood collection, designed by Marie Wallin. This is a sophisticated knitted garment featuring intricate stranded colorwork patterning throughout. The cardigan is available in five sizes ranging from small (to fit bust 81–86 cm / 32–34 in) through to XXL (to fit bust 122–127 cm / 48–50 in), making it accessible for a wide range of body measurements. The design incorporates a button front closure with eight 15mm buttons, and includes a steek construction method for the front opening, which is reinforced with fine woven ribbon on the inside for durability and a professional finish.

Techniques Used

Stranded colorwork is the primary decorative technique, requiring the knitter to carry multiple yarn colors across rows to create the pattern. This intermediate-level technique demands careful tension management to ensure even fabric and prevent puckering. The cardigan employs a steek, a traditional method of cutting open knitted fabric to create an opening for the front button band. This technique is reinforced with a fine woven ribbon sewn to the inside, providing structural support and preventing unraveling. The pattern also uses circular needles for seamless construction in the round, which is a common approach for colorwork garments as it allows the knitter to work continuously without turning the work.

Stitches Used

While specific stitch counts are referenced in the pattern instructions, the primary stitch structure is stockinette stitch, the foundation for most colorwork knitting. The stranded colorwork sections create the visual pattern through strategic color changes within rows. The ribbed edgings, cuffs, and button bands are worked in knit and purl ribbing to provide elasticity and a neat, tailored finish. The crochet hook listed in the materials is used for securing and finishing the steek edges after cutting, a standard finishing technique in colorwork cardigan construction.

Materials

Hawthorn is knitted in 4-ply yarn, a lightweight yet durable weight that creates a refined drape suitable for a fitted cardigan. The design features a stunning palette of ten coordinated colors from the British Breeds collection: Raw (the main color, requiring 11–17 balls depending on size), Mulberry, Rose, Chestnut, Russet, Wood, Dark Apple, and Quince, each used as accent colors in 1–2 balls. Mallard and Lime Flower are used in slightly larger quantities (1–2 balls) to accommodate their prominent roles in the colorwork pattern.

The needle requirements include 2¼mm (US 1) double-pointed needles for ribbed sections, 2¾mm (US 2) double-pointed needles for transitional shaping, and 3¼mm (US 3) circular needles for the main body colorwork. Additional circular needles in 2¼mm and 2¾mm sizes are used for working the ribbed edgings in the round. A 2.50mm (US B1/C2) crochet hook is essential for finishing the steek. Eight 15mm buttons (TGB2307 from Textile Garden) complete the front closure, and fine woven ribbon is required to reinforce the steek opening on the inside of the cardigan.

Difficulty Level

This pattern is rated as intermediate, reflecting the skills required to execute stranded colorwork successfully and manage the steek technique. Knitters should be comfortable with reading colorwork charts, maintaining even tension across multiple colors, and have experience with circular needle construction before attempting this design.