Crochet

Where to start with crochet

Crochet needs remarkably little to begin: one hook, one ball of smooth yarn and a pair of scissors. Everything else can wait. The whole craft is built on a handful of stitches – chain, slip stitch, double crochet, half treble and treble – and almost every pattern in this section is a combination of those five worked in rows, in rounds or in motifs. Because a crochet stitch is completed before you move on, you only ever have one live loop, which means putting your work down mid-row costs you nothing. If you would rather not choose the pieces yourself, a crochet kit puts the yarn, the right hook and the pattern in one box – a granny-square or amigurumi kit is the easiest first project there is.

Hooks and what the sizes mean

Hook sizes are given in millimetres and are matched to yarn weight rather than to your hand: roughly 2mm to 3mm for 4 ply, 3.5mm to 4.5mm for DK, 5mm to 5.5mm for aran and 6mm upwards for chunky. Steel hooks below 2mm are for crochet thread and fine lace. Material matters more than people expect: aluminium is fast and slippery, wood and bamboo grip the yarn and slow things down helpfully for beginners, and a soft moulded handle makes a real difference over long sessions if your hands ache. Our crochet hooks can be browsed by size, brand and material.

Choosing yarn for a first project

• Smooth, light-coloured DK in wool or acrylic – you can see the stitches, which matters enormously at first.
• Cotton DK for amigurumi, coasters and bags, because it holds a firm, defined stitch.
• Aran or chunky if you want a finished hat or scarf quickly.
• Avoid at the start: black yarn, fluffy mohair, boucle and anything variegated enough to hide your stitch count.

What to make first, and next

A granny square is the traditional starting point and remains the best one: it teaches chains, trebles and working into a space, and four of them make a cushion. From there, a simple scarf in half treble builds even tension, a basic beanie introduces working in the round with increases, and amigurumi teaches the magic ring and invisible decreases. Blankets, shawls, cardigans and garments follow naturally, and by then you will be reading patterns rather than following them stitch by stitch. When you are ready, the full range of crochet patterns covers every one of those next steps.

UK and US terms – the thing that trips everyone up

UK and US crochet use the same words for different stitches. A UK double crochet is a US single crochet; a UK treble is a US double crochet. Every pattern states which terminology it uses, usually in the abbreviations list, and checking that line before you start will save you an unpicked afternoon. If a pattern is producing a fabric that looks twice as tall as the photograph, terminology is almost always the reason.

Tension, blocking and finishing

Crochet fabric is denser and heavier than knitting, and it uses roughly a third more yarn for the same area, which is worth remembering when buying. Work a swatch and count in the middle rather than at the edges, where the turning chain distorts things. Block finished pieces – wet blocking for wool, pinning firmly for cotton lace and steam-hovering, never pressing, for acrylic. Weave ends along the direction of the stitches over several centimetres rather than knotting, and give edges a tidy round of double crochet to stop them curling.