Wickeljacke in Schachenmayr Silk Wool - 1992 - Downloadable PDF

Wickeljacke in Schachenmayr Silk Wool – Free Knitting Pattern (Downloadable PDF)

This free downloadable PDF pattern from Schachenmayr provides full instructions for knitting a classic wrap jacket (Wickeljacke) for women. The design is worked in a luxurious chunky-weight yarn and features elegant shaping details that make it a timeless wardrobe staple. Instructions are given for five sizes, ranging from size 32/34 through to 48/50, with stitch counts presented in sequence and separated by hyphens throughout the pattern.

Yarn and Materials

The pattern calls for Schachenmayr Select Silk Wool, a premium chunky-weight yarn with a sophisticated fibre blend of 64% pure new wool (Schurwolle), 27% silk, and 9% polyamide. The yardage is approximately 120 metres per 50 g ball. The colourway specified in the original pattern is Frost Melange, colour number 07172. Depending on size, the quantity required ranges from 450 g to 650 g, making this an achievable project without an excessive yarn investment.

• Yarn: Schachenmayr Select Silk Wool, Frost Melange Fb 07172
• Quantity: 450–500–550–600–650 g across the five sizes
• Fibre: 64% Schurwolle, 27% Seide, 9% Polyamid
• Yardage: approx. 120 m / 50 g

For needles, the pattern uses Milward knitting needles in two sizes: Nr. 5–5½ for the ribbed cuffs and welts, and the larger Nr. 5½–6 for the main stockinette sections. Additionally, two needles from a double-pointed needle set in Nr. 4 are required for finishing details. The pattern also specifies four press studs (snap fasteners) from Milward, article number 219 5140, for the wrap closure.

Construction and Garment Pieces

The wrap jacket is constructed in separate flat-knitted pieces that are seamed together. The pattern covers the following sections:

• Back piece (Rückenteil)
• Left front piece (Linkes Vorderteil)
• Right front piece (Rechtes Vorderteil, referenced in the original)
• Sleeves and finishing bands

Techniques and Shaping

The jacket showcases a range of classic knitting techniques that combine structure with elegance. The lower edges begin with a ribbed welt (Bündchenmuster) worked on the smaller needle size, creating a neat, elasticated border approximately 4 cm in height. After this, the work transitions to the larger needles for the body of the jacket.

A key feature of this design is its waist shaping (Taillierung), which gives the wrap jacket a flattering, fitted silhouette. This is achieved through a carefully sequenced series of decreases and increases on both sides of the back and front pieces:

• Decreases are worked after 2 rows (once) and then every 12th row (twice on each side), reducing the stitch count to create a tapered waist. The decrease method used is a Überzug (slip one stitch knitwise, knit one stitch, pass the slipped stitch over) at the beginning of right-side rows, and k2tog (two stitches knitted together) before the end selvedge stitch.
• Increases are then worked every 16th row (twice on each side) to restore fullness at the hip. The increase technique specified is knitting into the cross-thread between stitches through the back loop (verschränkt aus dem Querfaden), which is the equivalent of a M1 twisted increase — a method that closes the hole and leaves a virtually invisible