Signs Of Summer In Koigu Jasmine - Downloadable PDF

Signs of Summer in Koigu Jasmine – Knitting Pattern Summary

The Signs of Summer sweater is a colourwork pullover from Koigu Wool Designs, released as part of their Heritage Sweater Collection. This collection celebrates ten classic sweater designs originally created by Maie Landra, co-founder of Koigu, during the 1980s and 1990s. Each design in the collection draws on traditional Estonian knitwear motifs, and the Signs of Summer pattern is no exception — making it a meaningful project for knitters who appreciate folk textile traditions as well as a striking finished garment.

Design Inspiration and Motif

The central decorative element of this sweater is the Ubaekiri motif, an Estonian folk art term referring to a stylized, abstract decorative pattern. The word derives from uba, meaning "bean," and kiri, meaning "pattern" or "script," so it is sometimes loosely translated as a bean script or bean motif. This type of motif has deep roots in Estonian folk art, weaving, and traditional knitting. In the Signs of Summer sweater, the Ubaekiri is used as an allover colourwork pattern, meaning it repeats across the entire body and sleeves of the garment rather than appearing only as a border or yoke accent. The result is a richly textured, visually cohesive sweater with an authentic heritage aesthetic.

What Is Being Made

This pattern produces a bottom-up, seamed colourwork pullover sweater with a boxy, slightly oversized fit. The silhouette is intentionally relaxed, designed to allow for comfortable layering. Knitters are advised to size up when in doubt, as the extra ease is a deliberate design feature rather than a fitting error. The sweater is a substantial project suited to advanced knitters who are comfortable with colourwork, seaming, and reading charted patterns.

Construction and Techniques

The construction method follows a classic bottom-up, seamed approach that is characteristic of traditional Estonian and Scandinavian knitwear. Key construction details include:

• Body worked in the round: The body of the sweater begins at the hem and is knitted in the round (circularly) up to the underarm. Working in the round is particularly advantageous for colourwork, as the knitter always faces the right side of the fabric, making it easier to follow charts and maintain even tension.
• Flat knitting for front and back: At the underarm, the body is divided and the front and back sections are each worked flat (back and forth on straight needles) separately. This is a traditional seamed construction technique.
• Sleeves worked flat and seamed: The sleeves are written to be worked flat and then seamed before being sewn onto the body. Experienced knitters may choose to knit the sleeves in the round to avoid seaming, and the pattern acknowledges this option. Knitting both sleeves simultaneously on straight needles is suggested as a way to maintain consistency and save time.
• Seaming and finishing: Because this is a seamed garment, knitters will join the front, back, and sleeves using seaming techniques. Koigu provides helpful video resources (via their YouTube channel @koiguwooldesigns) covering seaming, blocking, and colourwork tips, accessible via a QR code in the pattern.
• Blocking: Blocking is an important finishing step for any colourwork sweater, helping to even out stitches and open up the pattern. Video guidance on blocking is included among the supplementary resources.

Colourwork Details

The allover charted colourwork pattern is worked from written charts included in the PDF. Knitters follow the Ubaekiri repeat across the full circumference of the body and sleeves. The pattern includes guidance for situations where a full repeat does not fit evenly — in such cases, knitters are instructed to mark their starting and stopping points on the chart and continue consistently from those positions. This ensures the colourwork remains visually balanced even when stitch counts do not divide perfectly into the repeat. Maintaining loose, even tension is emphasized throughout, as colourwork knitting can tighten up if the floats (the strands of yarn carried across the back of the work between colour changes) are pulled too snugly.

Stitches and Skills Used