Mary Jane

Mary Jane Waistcoat by Kennita Tully

What is Being Made

The Mary Jane is a beginner-friendly knitted waistcoat designed by Kennita Tully. This downloadable knitting pattern offers seven size options ranging from extra-small (XS) through 3X, making it accessible for a wide range of body types. The finished measurements span chest widths from 32.25 inches (XS) to 56.25 inches (3X), with corresponding length adjustments from 20.75 inches to 26.75 inches. The armhole depth varies proportionally across sizes, ranging from 7 inches to 10 inches, ensuring proper fit across the size range.

Knitting Techniques and Construction

This waistcoat is constructed using fundamental knitting techniques suitable for beginners. The pattern employs a long tail cast-on method to establish the foundation stitches. Construction begins with the back piece, and the pattern utilizes removable stitch markers to track pattern repeats and shaping points throughout the knitting process. The use of circular knitting needles—both a 36-inch needle for the main body and a 16-inch needle for armhole trim—allows for seamless or nearly seamless construction, which is a hallmark of modern knitting design.

Stitches Used

The Mary Jane features Stockinette stitch as its primary stitch pattern. Stockinette stitch is one of the most fundamental knitting stitches, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side (or knitting all stitches when working in the round). This classic stitch creates the smooth, V-textured fabric characteristic of many fitted garments. The pattern also incorporates purl stitches for edge definition and trim work, particularly noted in the armhole finishing.

Yarn and Materials

The Mary Jane calls for Tahki Yarns "Alden," a DK-weight yarn that blends luxury fibers with practical durability. Each 50-gram ball provides 250 yards of yardage, and the fiber composition includes 50% fine merino wool, 25% superfine alpaca, and 25% acrylic. This blend offers the breathability and softness of natural fibers while the acrylic content adds resilience and ease of care. The sample shown in the pattern was knit in colorway #05 cherry. Yardage requirements range from 2 balls (500 yards) for the smallest sizes to 4 balls (1000 yards) for the largest size (3X).

The pattern specifies Size US5 (3.75mm) circular knitting needles—a 36-inch length for the main body and a 16-inch length for working the armhole trim. Circular needles of this size are ideal for DK-weight yarn and allow for smooth, even tension during construction. Additional materials include removable stitch markers for tracking pattern sections and a tapestry needle for weaving in yarn ends during finishing.

Gauge

The pattern establishes a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches (10 centimeters) in Stockinette stitch. Achieving correct gauge is essential for proper fit, and the pattern emphasizes this by noting "To save time, take time to check gauge"—a reminder that gauge swatching prevents costly mistakes in yardage and sizing.