Mandarin Jacket in Adriafil Genius - Downloadable PDF

Mandarin Jacket in Adriafil Genius

What Is Being Made

This is a mandarin jacket knitted from Adriafil Genius yarn in a vibrant yellow (color no. 67). The design features a classic mandarin collar style and is sized for size 44 (with a size 42 option). The finished jacket is constructed using traditional knitting techniques and finished with five buttons for closure.

Yarn and Materials

The project uses 400 grams of Adriafil Genius yarn, an aran-weight yarn that provides excellent drape and structure for a tailored jacket. Additional materials include knitting needles in sizes 5½ and 6, a size 3.50 crochet hook for finishing details, five buttons for the front closure, and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and seaming.

Knitting Techniques and Stitches

This mandarin jacket employs several essential knitting techniques:

• English Rib Stitch – The primary stitch pattern used throughout the jacket body. This decorative ribbed texture is worked over an even number of stitches with a specific two-row repeat. Row 1 is worked entirely in knit stitch, while Row 2 and successive rows alternate knit stitches with double stitches. The double stitch is created by inserting the right-hand needle into the stitch below on the left needle and knitting one stitch while dropping the yarn of the current row's stitch, creating a distinctive textured appearance.
• Elastic Rib Stitch – Used for the initial cast-on edge and early rows to create a stretchy, fitted opening that provides recovery and shape retention at the garment's edges.
• 1/1 Rib Stitch – A classic alternating knit and purl rib that provides elasticity and is likely used for cuffs, neckbands, or other fitted edges.
• Shaping Techniques – The jacket incorporates strategic decreases and increases to create a fitted silhouette. Decreases are worked at the side seams every 8 rows (repeated 4 times) to taper the garment, followed by increases every 12 rows (repeated 4 times) to add width at the hips, creating a shaped, flattering fit.

Pattern Construction

The jacket is worked in separate pieces, beginning with the back panel. The back is cast on with 79 stitches (77 stitches for size 42) using size 6 needles. The pattern begins with 2 rows of elastic rib for stability, then transitions into the English rib stitch pattern that forms the main fabric. The garment reaches approximately 37 centimeters (36 centimeters for size 42) from the cast-on edge before armhole shaping begins.

Gauge and Sizing

The tension is measured at 16 stitches and 26 rows over 10 x 10 centimeters when working the English rib stitch on size 6 needles. This gauge is essential for achieving the correct finished dimensions and fit of the mandarin jacket.