Damenpulli in Schachenmayr Belisia - 2197 - Downloadable PDF

Damenpulli in Schachenmayr Belisia – Pattern 2197: A Free Knitted Women's Sweater

This free downloadable PDF pattern (Design 2197) from Schachenmayr provides instructions for a classic Damenpulli — a fitted women's pullover sweater — knitted in Schachenmayr Belisia yarn. The design is available in five sizes covering 32/34, 36/38, 40/42, 44/46, and 48/50, making it accessible to a wide range of knitters looking for a well-fitted, elegant everyday sweater.

What Is Being Made

The finished garment is a women's fitted pullover sweater with thoughtful shaping details. The pattern includes a back panel (Rückenteil) and a front panel (Vorderteil), both worked flat and shaped with waist shaping, armhole shaping, and shoulder slope shaping. The result is a smooth, tailored silhouette with a defined waist and clean armhole lines — a timeless wardrobe staple suitable for a variety of occasions.

Construction and Shaping Techniques

The sweater is constructed using flat knitting, with each panel worked separately before finishing. Several key shaping techniques are employed throughout:

• Waist shaping: Stitches are decreased on both sides after the ribbing to create a narrower waist, then gradually increased again to restore the full hip and bust width. Specifically, after 10 rows, 1 stitch is cast off on each side, followed by 4 further decreases every 8th row. After an additional 8 rows, stitches are increased — 1 stitch each side once, then every 12th row four more times — producing a gently curved, body-conscious fit.
• Armhole shaping: At 36 cm height, armholes are shaped by casting off stitches in stages on both sides. The initial bind-off varies by size (3–9 stitches), followed by further decreases every 2nd row, creating a smooth, rounded armhole curve.
• Shoulder slope (back neck and shoulder shaping): Beginning at heights of 49–55 cm depending on size, the back shoulders are shaped with stepped bind-offs every 2nd row. The number of stitches and steps vary by size — for example, size 32/34 uses 4 repeats of 2 stitches followed by 8 repeats of 3 stitches, while larger sizes use progressively larger stitch groups — finishing with a final straight bind-off of the remaining 6 stitches.

Stitches Used

The pattern calls for two distinct stitch patterns, each serving a specific structural purpose:

• Bündchenmuster (ribbing): Used for the first 4 cm of the back and front panels to create an elastic, neat lower edge. Ribbing is a classic combination of alternating knit and purl stitches worked in sequence, providing stretch and a tidy finish that prevents the hem from curling.
• Glatt links (reverse stockinette stitch): The main body fabric is worked in reverse stockinette — where the purl side faces outward as the right side of the fabric. This creates a soft, matte, slightly textured surface that differs from the shinier appearance of standard stockinette. It is a popular choice for showcasing smooth, fine-weight yarns like Belisia, as it gives the fabric a subtle, sophisticated look.

Needles

Two needle sizes are used to achieve the correct tension and fabric quality:

• Needles size 3–3½ mm are used for the ribbed cuff section, producing a firmer, more elastic edge.
• Needles size 3½–4 mm are used for the main body worked in reverse stockinette, giving the fabric a slightly more relaxed and fluid drape.

Yarn

The pattern is designed specifically for Schachenmayr Belisia, a sport weight yarn. Sport weight yarns are finer than DK but heavier than fingering weight, striking a balance between drape and stitch definition. Belisia is well suited to fitted garments like this pullover, as its smooth texture works beautifully in reverse stockinette and allows the