Damenmieder in Schachenmayr Tweed Deluxe and Extra Soft Merino Alpaca - 2104 - Downloadable PDF

Damenmieder Pattern Summary: Schachenmayr Tweed Deluxe and Extra Soft Merino Alpaca – Design 2104

This downloadable PDF pattern from Schachenmayr provides instructions for knitting a classic women's Damenmieder — a fitted ladies' bodice or waistcoat — worked in a richly textured combination of stitch patterns. The design is available in four sizes covering European dress sizes 32/34, 36/38, 40/42, and 44/46, making it accessible to a wide range of knitters. The pattern is offered as a free downloadable PDF, making it an excellent choice for knitters looking to explore structured garment construction with premium yarns.

Yarns and Materials

The bodice is worked using two distinct Schachenmayr yarns, each contributing its own texture and character to the finished piece:

• Schachenmayr select Tweed Deluxe — a chunky weight yarn used as the primary yarn, in the colourway Lila/Schwarz (colour 07106). Quantities range from 250 g to 350 g depending on the size being knitted. This yarn provides the warm, rustic tweed texture that gives the garment its distinctive character.
• Schachenmayr select Extra Soft Merino Alpaca — a DK weight yarn used as an accent or contrast yarn, in Violett (colour 06048), with 50 g required for all sizes. The merino and alpaca blend adds a luxuriously soft touch and a complementary tonal depth to the design.

The recommended needles are Milward knitting needles in size 6. In addition, the pattern calls for 6 buttons — specifically Jim Knopf, Art. 12681, size 40, in antique silver (Fb 01) — which are noted as being available from specialist retailers. These decorative buttons add a refined, vintage-inspired finish to the garment.

Tension and Gauge

Achieving the correct tension is essential for a well-fitting bodice. The pattern specifies a gauge of 14 stitches and 22 rows to 10 cm × 10 cm measured across the various stitch patterns used in the garment. Additionally, 20 stitches of cable pattern measure approximately 10 cm in width. Knitters are advised to work a tension swatch before beginning, as the combination of different stitch patterns — each with its own draw-in and stretch — affects the overall dimensions of the finished piece.

Stitch Patterns and Techniques

The bodice is notable for its sophisticated combination of multiple stitch patterns worked simultaneously across the fabric, creating a richly textured and visually dynamic surface. The key stitch patterns used include:

• Zopfmuster A (Cable Pattern A) — a 20-stitch cable panel worked over a defined repeat of 8 rows. This classic cable creates the bold, rope-like twists that are central to the garment's design. The cable pattern is worked symmetrically on both sides of the bodice front and back.
• Zopfmuster B (Cable Pattern B) — identical in construction to Zopfmuster A, but begun from the 5th pattern row rather than the 1st, creating a deliberate offset between the two cable panels. This staggered approach gives the design a sense of movement and visual interest, preventing the cables from appearing as simple mirror images of one another.
• Bündchenmuster (Rib/Welt Pattern) — a ribbing or band stitch used along the side edges of the back and front pieces. This pattern is worked over 8, 10, 12, or 14 stitches depending on the size, and involves a combination of knit and purl stitches arranged to create a neat, structured border. The rib begins with a specific sequence of knit-right, knit-left combinations and is later replaced by the Großes Perlmuster after the initial 4 cm.
• Großes Perlmuster (Large Seed/Moss Stitch) — introduced after the first 4 cm of height, this textured stitch pattern replaces the ribbing on the side panels, adding a more open and decorative surface texture that contrasts beau