Gloves & Mittens Knitting Patterns

Mittens, gloves or something in between

The choice comes down to warmth against dexterity. Mittens keep the fingers together and are far warmer, which is why they win for children and for standing about in the cold. Gloves give you individual fingers and the ability to hold a key, at the cost of five small tubes knitted one after another. Fingerless mitts split the difference and are the ones that actually get worn indoors, on commutes and at desks. Convertible mitts with a fold-back flap are the practical compromise for anyone who needs their fingertips occasionally.

Where the skill lies

• Working in the round: double-pointed needles, a small circular, or magic loop. All three produce the same tube; pick whichever you find least fiddly.
• The thumb gusset: a wedge of increases that makes room for the base of the thumb, then held on waste yarn and picked up later.
• Picking up around the thumb: the gap at each side is where holes appear. Pick up one or two extra stitches there and decrease them away on the next round.
• Fingers: the same technique as the thumb, repeated. Do the little finger last and cast off loosely.

Yarn and warmth

4 ply and DK are the standard weights: fine enough for a close fit, warm enough for winter. Wool with a little nylon lasts longer at the fingertips, where mittens wear first. Pure wool blocks crisply, which flatters cables and colourwork. Stranded colourwork doubles the fabric thickness and makes mittens noticeably warmer than a single-layer knit of the same yarn, which is why traditional patterns from cold countries are almost always two-colour. Alpaca is very warm but stretches, so size down. Most pairs take one 100g ball or less, making these ideal single-skein projects.

Getting the fit right

Measure around the hand at the knuckles, excluding the thumb, and aim for a finished circumference around 1 to 2cm smaller so the fabric hugs. Knit the hand until the tube reaches the base of the little finger before starting the finger divisions, and try it on constantly, which is the great advantage of knitting in the round. For children, measure rather than guess by age, and add a length of cord between the pair so they come home together.

Techniques worth learning here

Mittens are a small, low-risk place to try new things. An afterthought thumb, worked from waste yarn later, lets you knit the whole hand uninterrupted. A tubular cast on gives a professional stretchy cuff. Two-colour stranding on such a small circumference teaches you to keep floats loose; if the fabric puckers, your floats are too tight, and spreading the stitches on the right needle before catching the next colour fixes it. Knitting both mittens at once on two circulars guarantees they match.

Finishing and repairs

Weave the thumb-join ends in first, and close any remaining gap with a couple of stitches worked on the wrong side. Steam or wet block wool mittens to even the fabric out. When the fingertips eventually go, darn over the thin patch before it becomes a hole, and keep a few metres of leftover yarn with the pair for exactly that.

Glove and mitten questions

Can I knit mittens on straight needles? Yes, if the pattern is written flat and seamed, but knitting in the round avoids a seam along the palm.

How much yarn does a pair of mittens take? Usually well under 100g in DK, which makes them a good use for leftovers and single skeins.

Why do I get a hole beside my thumb? Too few stitches picked up around the gap. Pick up extras and decrease them on the following round.

Which is easier, mittens or gloves? Mittens, by some distance. Gloves repeat the same thumb technique five more times on tiny stitch counts.

Are fingerless mitts warm enough? For indoor and commuting use, yes. For real cold, choose full mittens or a convertible flip-top design.