Cotton Yarn

What cotton yarn does well, and what it doesn't

Cotton is a plant fibre with no crimp, which is an important fact that explains its behaviour. Because there is no crimp, there is no memory: cotton does not spring back the way wool does. That makes it superb for anything that should hold a firm shape and keep its stitch definition, which is why amigurumi makers reach for Scheepjes Catona and Rico Ricorumi, and why dishcloths in Lily Sugar 'n Cream last for years. It also means a heavy cotton jumper will gradually lengthen under its own weight, and that ribbed cuffs will not grip. Cotton is cool against the skin, machine washable in most cases, and completely non-itchy, which makes it the default for summer tops and for anyone allergic to wool.

Choosing a weight

• 4 ply cotton: lightweight summer tops, baby garments and fine crochet. Slow, but the fabric drapes best.
• DK cotton: the all-rounder. Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK and Rico Essentials Cotton DK suit tops, cardigans, bags and blankets.
• Aran cotton: quicker projects, homeware, sturdy market bags and warm summer-evening cardigans.
• 25g mini balls: Scheepjes Catona in 25 gram and similar sizes exist for colour-heavy amigurumi and granny squares where you need many shades in small amounts.
• T-shirt and ribbon yarn: recycled t-shirt yarn and Hoooked Zpagetti for baskets, rugs and bag handles on a very large hook.

Tension, hands and hooks

Cotton has no give, so it is harder on the hands than wool, especially in crochet where you pull each loop through under tension. Two practical fixes: go up half a hook or needle size from the ball band if your fabric feels board-like, and take frequent breaks rather than pushing through a whole afternoon. Mercerised cottons such as Catania and Catona are smooth and slightly shiny and slip on metal needles, so bamboo or wood can help. Unmercerised, softly spun cottons are matt and grippier, and they bloom slightly after washing, closing up small gaps in the fabric.

Quantities and colour

Cotton is heavier than wool for the same length, so a ball gives fewer metres than the weight suggests. Buy to metreage: a DK summer top for an adult commonly needs 900-1,400m, a large market bag in aran a few hundred, and a granny square blanket depends entirely on the square count. Solid cotton ranges are the reason colourwork and stripes are so satisfying here; both Paintbox and Scheepjes carry deep shade cards, and 10 ball colour packs exist for people planning a full blanket palette in one go.

Blocking, care and finishing

Cotton blocks by soaking rather than steaming, and it takes the shape you pin it to fairly obediently, though not permanently. Expect a first wash to shrink and thicken the fabric slightly, particularly with unmercerised cotton, which is why the swatch must be washed before you trust its measurements. Most cotton yarns machine wash at 30 or 40 degrees; tumble drying is where garments go wrong, so dry flat and reshape while damp. For homeware such as dishcloths and baskets, ordinary hot machine washing is fine and is the whole point.

Cotton yarn questions

Is 100% cotton yarn good for beginners? The stitch definition is excellent so you can see your mistakes, but it is less forgiving on tension than wool. A DK cotton on a slightly larger hook is a good compromise.

What can I make with cotton yarn? Summer tops, baby clothes, amigurumi, dishcloths, market bags, baskets, blankets and homeware.

Does cotton yarn shrink? It can tighten slightly on the first wash. Wash your tension swatch first and follow the ball band temperature.

Which cotton is best for amigurumi? A smooth mercerised 4 ply or DK such as Catona or Ricorumi, worked tightly so stuffing does not show.

Can I substitute cotton for wool in a pattern? Match the tension, and expect more weight, more drape and no ribbing memory. It works best in loose shapes.

Where to go next

By weight: chunky and super chunky cotton for baskets, bags and homeware, or a cotton DK and aran for garments. Cotton blends soften with bamboo and silk, and recycled cotton uses reclaimed fibre. New to working with it? our yarn buying guide explains how cotton behaves against wool, and best yarn for summer clothes covers what to knit with it.