Henley

Henley Lace and Spiral Pattern Collared Jacket by Judy Furlong

What is Being Made

The Henley is a versatile slouchy knitted jacket designed by Judy Furlong and originally published in GMC Knitting Magazine, Issue 117 (July 2013). This collared jacket features a relaxed fit and is available in multiple sizes to fit bust measurements of 82, 86, 91, 96, and 101 centimeters. The garment includes long sleeves, a collar, pockets, and front bands, making it a complete layering piece suitable for various occasions.

Construction Technique

The Henley is constructed using a strategic one-piece knitting method that maximizes efficiency and minimizes seaming. The body is worked as a single piece from the cast-on edge up to the armholes, where it is then divided to create separate left front, right front, and back sections. This approach reduces the number of seams required and allows for seamless integration of design elements.

A distinctive rib panel is incorporated where traditional side seams would be located. This design feature provides flexibility, allowing the finished garment to be blocked to your personal preference for a customized fit. The sleeves are knitted separately from the cuff upward and are then set into the armholes using the picked-up stitch method.

Additional details are completed by picking up stitches from existing edges: the pocket tops, front bands, and collar are all created by picking up stitches and working them in the round or flat as appropriate. The collar features short row shaping to create a refined, contoured neckline.

Stitches Used

The Henley employs lace stitch patterns and spiral textured stitches as the primary decorative elements. These stitch patterns are described as fairly simple, making them accessible to intermediate-level knitters. Notably, no cable needle is required, which simplifies the knitting process while still creating visual interest and texture.

The garment also incorporates rib stitching for functional and decorative purposes. Rib appears in the welt at the hem, the cuff of each sleeve, and as trim on the pockets and front bands. The collar is shaped using short row shaping techniques, a method that creates curves and contours without increasing or decreasing stitches in the traditional manner.

Materials

The Henley is designed to be worked in DK weight yarn, a medium-weight yarn that provides good stitch definition for showcasing the lace and spiral patterns. The original yarn used in the published pattern appears to be discontinued; however, Blacker Classic DK is recommended as a suitable substitute. This yarn is composed of 100% wool, including 30% Blue Faced Leicester, and is available in white, dark red, and navy colorways. Swatching is advised before committing to this yarn choice to ensure the final garment meets your expectations.

Standard knitting needles appropriate for DK weight yarn are required, though the specific needle size is not detailed in the provided pattern excerpt.

Difficulty Level

The Henley is rated as an intermediate knitting project. While the lace and spiral stitch patterns are described as fairly simple, the overall construction involves multiple techniques including one-piece body construction, set-in sleeves, picked-up stitches for finishing details, and short row shaping for the collar. These elements combine to create a project suitable for knitters with foundational skills and some experience with shaping and stitch manipulation.