Damenmieder in Schachenmayr Silk Wool - 2111 - Downloadable PDF

Damenmieder in Schachenmayr Silk Wool

What is Being Made

This downloadable knitting pattern creates a women's fitted top or bodice (Damenmieder) in three size ranges: 32/34, 36–40, and 42–46. The garment features a classic construction with separate back and front pieces that are seamed together at the shoulders, making it suitable for intermediate to advanced knitters seeking a structured, tailored fit.

Techniques Used

The pattern employs several essential knitting techniques to achieve its finished appearance. Cable crossing is a primary technique, used to create the decorative texture throughout the piece. The pattern includes cast-on and bind-off methods for establishing and finishing edges. Shaping techniques are used to create armhole decreases and neckline shaping, with stitches bound off in groups to form the garment's structure. Blocking and finishing are emphasized as important steps, with pieces pinned and dried under damp cloths to set the fabric and ensure proper dimensions.

Stitches Used

• Cable pattern (Zopfmuster): A charted cable design that repeats over 16 rows, creating the primary textural interest of the garment
• Knit stitch (rechts): Used in alternating blocks within the cable pattern
• Purl stitch (links): Used in alternating blocks within the cable pattern, creating contrast with the knit stitches
• Edge stitches (Randm): Selvage stitches worked at the beginning and end of rows to create clean, finished edges

Pattern Structure and Sizing

The back piece begins with 74–98–122 cast-on stitches depending on size, establishing a foundation row worked in alternating groups of 4 purl and 4 knit stitches. The cable pattern repeat spans 24 stitches, with the back featuring 3–4–5 repeats of this motif across the width. Armhole shaping occurs at 22 cm height with decreases of 4–8–12 stitches on each side. The front piece mirrors the back construction but includes neckline shaping at 22–24–26 cm height, where the central 30–30–34 stitches are bound off to create the neck opening. Final bind-off occurs at 40–42–44 cm height for all sizes.

Gauge and Finished Dimensions

The pattern specifies a gauge of 22–23 stitches and 29 rows over a 10 × 10 cm swatch, which is essential for achieving the correct finished size. This gauge measurement helps knitters determine whether their tension matches the pattern designer's expectations and allows for accurate sizing adjustments if needed.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

This pattern is designed for Schachenmayr Silk Wool yarn in a chunky weight, a premium blend that combines the softness of silk with the warmth and elasticity of wool. Chunky-weight yarn works up quickly, making this project relatively efficient to complete. While specific needle sizes are not detailed in the provided content, chunky-weight knitting typically requires needles in the US 9–11 range (5.5–8 mm) to achieve the specified gauge. Knitters should refer to the complete pattern instructions for exact needle recommendations.

Finishing Details

After all pieces are knitted, the garment requires careful finishing. Pieces are pinned to finished dimensions and dried under damp cloths, a traditional blocking method that sets the cable stitches and ensures even dimensions. Shoulder seams are then closed using mattress stitch or an appropriate seaming method, creating a professional, invisible join. The pattern indicates that neckline finishing details continue beyond the provided excerpt, likely including ribbing or edging to complete the neck opening.