Damenjacke in Schachenmayr Silk Wool - 1962

Damenjacke in Schachenmayr Silk Wool – Women's Jacket Knitting Pattern

What is Being Made

This is a downloadable knitting pattern for a women's jacket (Damenjacke) designed using Schachenmayr select Silk Wool yarn. The pattern provides instructions for constructing a complete jacket with front panels, back panels, and finishing details.

Yarn and Materials

The pattern calls for Schachenmayr select Silk Wool (Art. 12121) in a chunky weight. The yarn is worked double-stranded (2-fädig), meaning two threads are held together throughout the knitting process to achieve the desired fabric density and drape. Metal needles, size 8 (Nadeln Nr. 8), measuring 77 mm in length, are specified in the color Titan. The pattern is available through specialty yarn retailers (im Fachhandel erhältlich).

Knitting Techniques and Construction

This jacket employs several specialized knitting techniques to create its structure and visual interest:

• Double-Stranded Construction: The entire jacket is knitted with two strands of yarn held together simultaneously, creating a thicker, more substantial fabric suitable for outerwear.
• Edge Stitching (Randmaschen): Specific edge stitch techniques are applied to the front jacket edges (vorderen Jackenkanten). The left front panel uses a twisted stitch (rechts verschränkt) for the first stitch on wrong-side rows, with a slipped stitch (links abheben) for the second stitch, with the yarn held in front. On right-side rows, the penultimate stitch is worked right, and the final stitch is slipped with the yarn positioned in front. The right front panel reverses this pattern for symmetry.
• Double Patent Stitch (Doppeltes Patentmuster): This textured stitch pattern forms the primary fabric. The first row alternates two knit stitches with two purl stitches. In all subsequent rows, the knitter inserts the needle one row deeper into the stitches of the previous row for the knit stitches (causing the intervening stitches to drop away naturally), while all purl stitches are worked normally. This creates a deep, dimensional texture characteristic of patent knit fabrics.
• Garter Stitch (Kraus rechts): Garter stitch—created by knitting every row—is incorporated into the pattern, likely for ribbing, borders, or specific design elements that require a more stable, reversible fabric.

Gauge and Pattern Notes

The pattern includes a gauge swatch (Maschenprobe) worked with size 8 needles and two strands of yarn held together. Knitters are advised to work a gauge swatch before beginning the jacket to ensure proper fit and fabric characteristics. The pattern is provided in German and includes detailed row-by-row instructions for constructing the jacket pieces and assembling them into the finished garment.