Carnation

Carnation Jacket by Marie Wallin

What is Being Made

Carnation is a fitted jacket design from the Filigree collection, available in four sizes to fit bust measurements from 81–127 cm (32–50 inches). This intermediate-level project combines knitting and crochet techniques to create a structured, wearable garment suitable for various body types and proportions.

Primary Craft and Construction Method

The Carnation jacket is primarily a knitted garment, with crochet elements incorporated into the design. The main body is constructed using knitting needles, while crochet is used to create decorative motifs that are then joined together. This hybrid approach allows the designer to blend the drape and structure of knitting with the textural interest and flexibility of crochet work.

Crochet Motifs and Joining Technique

The jacket features crochet square motifs that measure 7.5 cm (approximately 3 inches) per side before joining. These individual squares are worked separately using a 2.50mm crochet hook and then assembled to form sections of the garment. This modular construction method is popular in contemporary knitwear design as it allows for creative color work, easier customization, and the ability to work on portable pieces.

Knitting Stitches and Gauge

The knitted portions of the Carnation jacket are worked primarily in rib stitch, which provides elasticity and a fitted silhouette. The tension is set at 35 stitches and 44 rows per 10 cm (4 inches) when slightly stretched, worked on 2¼mm (US size 1) needles. Rib stitch is an excellent choice for fitted jackets as it hugs the body while allowing for comfortable movement and recovery after wear.

Crochet Stitches Used

The crochet motifs incorporate several fundamental stitches to create texture and structure:

• Chain (ch) – the foundation stitch used to begin crochet work and create spaces within motifs
• Double crochet (dc) – a short, dense stitch that provides structure and definition
• Half treble (htr) – a medium-height stitch offering balance between density and drape
• Treble (tr) – a taller stitch that creates openwork and lacy effects
• Triple treble (ttr) – an extra-tall stitch used for dramatic height and openness in the motif design
• Slip stitch (ss) – used to join rounds and connect motifs seamlessly
• Decrease stitches (tr2tog and dtr2tog) – specialized techniques for shaping and tapering the crochet elements

Yarn and Materials

The Carnation jacket is designed to be worked in Rowan Summerlite, a 4-ply weight yarn. The yardage requirements vary by size: the smallest size (S–M) requires 9 balls of 50g, the medium size (L–XL) requires 11 balls, and the largest sizes (XXL) require 13 balls. The garment shown in the pattern photographs is worked in Pale Grey (colorway 418). The 4-ply weight provides a lightweight, breathable fabric ideal for a jacket that can be layered or worn in warmer seasons.

Tools Required

Construction of the Carnation jacket requires two primary tools: one pair of 2¼mm (US size 1) knitting needles for the main knitted sections, and a 2.50mm (US B1/C2) crochet hook for creating and joining the crochet motifs. Additionally, the pattern calls for one button for closure, making this a simple fastening system that complements the jacket's refined aesthetic.

Skill Level and Complexity

Rated as intermediate difficulty, the Carnation jacket requires knitters and crocheters to be comfortable with both crafts at a foundational level. The combination of rib stitch knitting and modular crochet motif construction, along with the precision needed to join pieces evenly, makes this an appropriate project for crafters who have completed several basic garments and are ready to explore more sophisticated construction techniques.