Aran Raglan Jacket

Aran Raglan Jacket with Collar by Pat Menchini

What is Being Made

This is a cabled Aran raglan jacket with collar, designed as an advanced-level knitting project. The jacket features traditional Aran cable work and is constructed using a raglan sleeve style, which means the sleeves are shaped with diagonal seams running from the underarm to the neckline. The design includes a collar and button front closure, making it a fully-featured outerwear piece suitable for various occasions.

Garment Specifications and Sizing

The pattern is available in six size options to fit chest measurements ranging from 86/91 cm (34/36 inches) up to 137/142 cm (54/56 inches). The actual finished garment widths range from approximately 102 cm (40 inches) to 151 cm (59½ inches), providing generous ease for comfortable wear. The length at the centre back, excluding the collar, ranges from 62 cm (24½ inches) for the smallest size to 71 cm (28 inches) for the largest size. The sleeve seam measurement is consistent across all sizes at 43 cm (17 inches).

Techniques Used

This advanced knitting project employs cable knitting techniques, which are a hallmark of traditional Aran design. Cable work involves crossing groups of stitches over one another to create raised, twisted patterns that add visual interest and texture to the fabric. The raglan construction method requires shaping decreases along the raglan lines to create the characteristic diagonal seams. The pattern also incorporates stocking stitch as the primary background fabric, which provides a smooth, classic base that allows the cable patterns to stand out prominently.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The jacket is primarily worked in stocking stitch, which is created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side. This fundamental stitch creates the smooth, V-shaped texture characteristic of most knitted garments. The cable patterns are worked using a cable needle, a specialized tool that temporarily holds stitches while others are worked, allowing the knitter to create the twisted, rope-like effects typical of Aran design. The exact cable patterns and their placement throughout the jacket are detailed within the full pattern instructions.

Materials and Yarn Specifications

The jacket is designed to be knitted using Stylecraft Alpaca Tweed Chunky yarn in the shade Blush. This is a chunky-weight yarn, which means it knits quickly and creates a fabric with good drape and warmth. Each 100g ball contains 133 metres (147 yards) of yarn. The pattern requires between 8 and 11 balls depending on the size being made, with the smallest size needing 8 balls and the largest size requiring 11 balls. The yarn blend of alpaca and tweed provides both softness and texture, making it suitable for a sophisticated outerwear piece.

Needles and Notions

The pattern calls for two pairs of knitting needles: one pair of 5 mm (UK 6, US 8) needles and one pair of 6 mm (UK 4, US 10) needles. The smaller needles are typically used for ribbed edgings and cuffs to create a tighter, more elastic fabric, while the larger needles are used for the main body and sleeves. A cable needle is essential for working the cable patterns throughout the jacket. The pattern also requires six buttons for the front button band closure.

Tension and Gauge

The pattern specifies a tension of 14 stitches and 20 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) over stocking stitch using the 6 mm needles. Achieving the correct tension is critical for this project, as it ensures the finished garment will be the correct size and drape properly. Knitters are advised to test their tension before beginning the project. If the test swatch is too loose, a finer needle should be used; if too tight, a larger needle should be substituted. The pattern notes that yarn amounts are approximate and based on average requirements, and recommends checking that replacement yarn matches the stated tension if the specified yarn becomes unavailable.

Difficulty Level

This project is rated as advanced, reflecting the complexity of cable work and raglan shaping. Knitters should have solid experience with cable techniques, garment construction, and reading detailed pattern instructions before attempting this design.