Willafjord collared henley

Willafjord Collared Henley by Susanne Daum

What is Being Made

The Willafjord is a raglan jumper designed as a collared henley with contrasting hem facings and a finished collar edge. This top-down knit construction creates a garment with structured shaping and refined finishing details, making it suitable for intermediate knitters seeking a polished, wearable design.

Construction Method

The Willafjord employs a top-down raglan construction, a popular technique in modern knitwear design that allows knitters to work from the neckline downward. This method provides several advantages: the ability to try on the garment as you work, flexibility to adjust length to personal preference, and seamless integration of sleeve and body shaping. The raglan sleeve style features diagonal decreases that create a smooth line from neck to cuff.

Finishing Techniques

This design showcases several advanced finishing methods that elevate the final garment:

• Hem facings in contrasting colour: Both the body and sleeves feature facing hems, which are worked in a contrasting yarn colour (Pearl Grey Mix for the main Petrol Mix body, or vice versa). Facings provide structure and prevent rolling while creating a sophisticated two-tone visual effect.
• Collar facing: The collar includes its own facing, ensuring a professional, durable neckline that maintains its shape through wear and washing.
• Applied i-cord edging: The collar is finished with an applied i-cord, a decorative and functional edge treatment that adds definition and prevents stretching. I-cord is created using double-pointed needles and applied directly to the finished edge for a polished result.

Stitches and Techniques Used

The pattern employs fundamental knitting stitches combined with shaping techniques:

• Knit and purl stitches: The foundation of the fabric, creating the base texture and structure.
• Increases and decreases: Essential for raglan shaping. The pattern uses standard decreases including k2tog (knit 2 together) and ssk (slip, slip, knit), which create the diagonal lines characteristic of raglan sleeves.
• Slip stitches: Used for various purposes including edge treatments and transitioning stitches between needles without working them.
• Pattern repeats: The abbreviation PR1 (Pattern Repeat, Row 1) indicates structured stitch patterns that may be used throughout the design for texture or visual interest.
• Circular needle techniques: Working in the round on circular needles allows for seamless construction and the ability to work flat sections when needed.

Materials and Tools

The Willafjord is designed to be worked in DK weight yarn, a versatile medium weight that creates fabric with good drape and stitch definition. The recommended yarn is Drops Lima, a blend of 65% wool and 35% alpaca, chosen for its warmth, elasticity, and luxurious feel.

Yardage requirements vary by size: The main colour (Petrol Mix or Pearl Grey Mix) requires 400–500 grams depending on size, while the contrasting colour for facings requires 350–400 grams. An additional 100 grams of a third colour (Green Mix) is specified, likely for the i-cord edging or additional contrast details.

Needle requirements include:

• Two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles, 80 cm or longer, for working the main fabric on the larger gauge
• Two 3 mm (US 2½) circular needles, 80 cm or longer (1 mm smaller than main needles), for ribbing or tighter sections
• Two 4 mm (US 6) double-pointed needles for creating the applied i-cord edging
• Waste yarn in contrasting colours for stitch holders and provisional cast-on techniques
• Optional stitch markers for tracking pattern repeats and shaping points
• A tapestry needle for weaving in ends and any seaming

Difficulty Level

Rated as intermediate, the Willafjord requires solid foundational knitting skills including comfort with circular needles, increases and decreases, and the ability to follow multi-step finishing instructions. The top-down raglan construction and