Vest in Schachenmayr Universa - 5401

Vest in Schachenmayr Universa – Free Knitting Pattern (Downloadable PDF)

This free downloadable PDF pattern from Schachenmayr provides instructions for knitting a classic vest (waistcoat) worked in Schachenmayr Universa, a DK-weight yarn. The design is a timeless, structured garment featuring a button front opening, armhole shaping, shoulder shaping, and a neat neckline — making it a versatile wardrobe staple suitable for a range of skill levels comfortable with basic shaping techniques.

What Is Being Made

The pattern produces a knitted vest (waistcoat) with a button-front closure, worked in three sizes. The garment is constructed with a right front panel, a left front panel, and a back panel, all joined and worked together at a certain point in the construction. Side slits are incorporated at the lower hem for ease of movement and a polished finish. The finished garment length varies by size, with a total height of 28 / 32 / 36 cm depending on the chosen size.

Construction Method

The vest uses a partially seamless, combined construction approach. The individual sections — right front, left front, and back — are initially worked separately from the lower edge, then joined onto the needles and worked together across all stitches. This technique reduces seaming and creates a smooth, continuous fabric across the body. The work is later divided to shape the armholes and work each section independently through to the shoulder and neckline.

• Separate lower sections: Each panel is cast on and worked individually for the lower portion, including the side slit sections.
• Joined body: All pieces are placed onto the needle together and worked as one across 143 / 161 / 181 stitches.
• Armhole division: At 15.5 / 17.5 / 19.5 cm height, the work is divided and 5 stitches are cast off at each armhole edge.
• Armhole shaping: Further decreases are worked on each front panel — 2 times 2 stitches and then 3 times 1 stitch on every right-side row — to create a neat, fitted armhole curve.
• Shoulder shaping: At 26.5 / 30.5 / 34.5 cm height, shoulder shaping begins with stepped cast-offs: first 5 / 4 / 6 stitches, then 3 times 3 / 4 / 5 stitches on alternate rows.
• Neckline: Remaining stitches at the neck edge are cast off to form the neckline opening.

Techniques Used

• Casting on and casting off — used at multiple points for shaping armholes, shoulders, and neckline
• Garter stitch border — worked at the lower hem and side slit sections for a firm, non-curling edge (kraus rechts in the original German instructions)
• Buttonhole construction — worked into the right front panel at regular intervals during the joined body section
• Decreasing — both double decreases and single decreases used for armhole and shoulder shaping
• Joining separate pieces onto one needle — a practical technique to avoid side seams on the main body
• Shoulder slope shaping — stepped cast-offs on alternate rows to create a smooth, angled shoulder line

Stitches Used

• Garter stitch (kraus rechts) — used for the lower borders and slit edgings, creating a neat, textured hem that lies flat
• Stockinette stitch — implied as the main body fabric, standard for DK-weight vest constructions of this style
• Buttonhole stitch sequences — integrated into the right front panel as described in the pattern instructions

Materials

The pattern