Tanssien Pleated Skirt in Novita Nalle - NFFP004 - Downloadable PDF

Tanssien Pleated Skirt in Novita Nalle – Pattern Summary (NFFP004)

The Tanssien Pleated Skirt is a beautifully structured knitted skirt designed by Minna Metsänen for Novita. This free, downloadable PDF pattern produces an elegant full-length skirt featuring crisp, tailored pleats that give it a graceful, flowing silhouette — perfect for anyone who loves combining classic knitwear techniques with wearable, fashion-forward garments. The name Tanssien evokes movement and dance, which is reflected in the skirt's generous, swishy pleated construction.

What Is Being Made

This pattern creates a pleated knitted skirt worked in the round, available in six sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL. Finished waist circumferences range from 66 cm to 106 cm (26 in to 41¾ in), and the completed length — including the waistband — ranges from 68 cm to 78 cm (26¾ in to 30¾ in). The skirt features a folded, elasticated waistband for a comfortable, secure fit, making it a practical as well as stylish garment.

Design Details and Construction

The skirt begins with a very large cast-on — between 527 and 837 stitches depending on size — which creates the generous volume needed for the pleats. One row is worked flat before the knitting transitions seamlessly into working in the round, with care taken not to twist the cast-on edge. The body of the skirt is worked downward from the waist, with the pleats formed and then secured at the top.

The pleat structure is established through a repeating stitch pattern that incorporates knit stitches, purl stitches, and slipped stitches to define fold lines. The pattern repeat is worked 16 to 26 times around the skirt depending on size, creating an impressive number of evenly spaced pleats. The body of each pleat panel is worked in stockinette stitch, which causes the fabric to roll naturally and helps the pleats hold their shape.

Pleat Securing Technique

One of the most distinctive and satisfying techniques in this pattern is the method used to secure the pleats at the waistband. This is achieved using double-pointed needles in a clever three-needle approach: stitches are divided onto two double-pointed needles, the second needle is turned so that the stockinette stripes face each other, and then stitches from all three needles — both double-pointed needles plus the working circular needle — are knitted together simultaneously. This neatly folds and locks each pleat in place, reducing the stitch count dramatically and creating a clean, structured top edge. This technique requires patience and attention to detail, which is why the pattern is rated intermediate in difficulty.

Waistband Construction

After the pleats are secured, the remaining stitches form the waistband, which is worked in stockinette stitch in the round. A purl round is worked at the midpoint after approximately 4 cm to create a clean fold line, and then a further 4 cm of stockinette is worked before binding off. The waistband is then folded to the inside and sewn down, and a 4 cm wide elastic band is threaded through and tied off to finish. Steaming the pleats is recommended as a finishing step to help them lie flat and crisp.

Stitches and Techniques Used

• Stockinette stitch in the round (knit every round) — used for the main body and waistband
• Purl stitches — used to define pleat fold lines within the stitch pattern repeat
• Slip stitch with yarn in back — used as an additional fold marker within the pleat repeat
• Three-needle pleat joining technique — using double-pointed needles to fold and knit pleats together simultaneously
• Working flat then joining in the round — the cast-on row is worked flat before transitioning to circular knitting
• Folded and sewn waistband with elastic casing