Perun

Perun Waistcoat by Sara Elizabeth Schmidt

What Is Being Made

Perun is a fitted knit waistcoat designed by Sara Elizabeth Schmidt, available in six sizes ranging from Small (36 inches) to 3XL (56 inches). This garment is a sleeveless vest constructed using the bottom-up method, combining circular knitting for the body with flat knitting for the front and back sections. The finished waistcoat features a full-length zipper closure, making it a versatile layering piece suitable for various occasions and seasons.

Construction Technique

The Perun waistcoat employs a hybrid knitting method that maximizes efficiency and fit. The body is worked in the round from the bottom edge up to the armhole depth, allowing for seamless construction and consistent stitch definition. Once the armholes are reached, the front and back sections are separated and worked flat using traditional back-and-forth knitting. This approach combines the advantages of circular knitting—eliminating the need for seaming the side seams—with the control and shaping precision of flat knitting for the upper body and armhole areas. The garment is then joined together, and a zipper is inserted for closure.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns Used

The primary stitch pattern is 6x2 ribbing, which creates vertical columns of texture and provides excellent stretch and recovery. The ribbing is worked lightly stretched to achieve the correct gauge. Essential knitting stitches employed throughout the pattern include:

• Knit (K) and Purl (P) stitches as foundational elements
• Knit one through the back loop (K1tbl) for twisted stitches that add definition
• Knit two stitches together (K2tog) and Knit two stitches together through the back loops (K2togtbl) for right-leaning decreases
• Slip, slip, knit (SSK) for left-leaning decreases
• Wrap and turn (W&T) for short-row shaping, enabling custom fit adjustments

These stitches work together to create shaping at the armholes and waist while maintaining the structural integrity of the ribbed fabric.

Yarn and Materials

The Perun waistcoat is designed to be knit with Wool of the Andes Tweed, a durable blend composed of 80% Peruvian highland wool and 20% Donegal tweed. This yarn is worsted weight, providing excellent stitch definition and durability. The recommended color is Farmhouse Heather. Yardage requirements vary by size: Small requires 8 skeins (880 yards total), Medium requires 9 skeins (990 yards), Large requires 10 skeins (1,100 yards), and sizes 1XL through 3XL require 11 to 13 skeins respectively (1,210 to 1,430 yards). Each skein contains 110 yards and weighs 50 grams.

Needles and Notions

Two circular needles are required to complete this project. A 24-inch US 7/4.5mm circular needle is used for the main knitting on the larger gauge, while a 24-inch US 5/3.75mm circular needle is used for ribbed sections or cast-on edges worked at a tighter gauge. Additional notions include a zipper (ranging from 24 inches for smaller sizes to 30 inches for the largest size), waste yarn for holding stitches, stitch markers for tracking pattern repeats and construction points, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, and a sewing needle with thread for attaching the zipper closure securely.

Difficulty Level

This pattern is rated as intermediate, making it suitable for knitters with foundational skills who are ready to tackle garment construction. The combination of circular and flat knitting, along with techniques such as short-row shaping and zipper insertion, requires comfort with basic decreases, stitch manipulation, and garment assembly. Knitters should be familiar with reading pattern abbreviations and managing multiple needles simultaneously.

Gauge and Sizing

Achieving the correct gauge is essential for proper fit. The pattern specifies a gauge of 20 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches in 6x2 ribbing, lightly stretched, on the larger needles. Knitters should swatch this pattern carefully, as the rib