Man’s Jacket in Schachenmayr Universa - S6917A

Man's Jacket in Schachenmayr Universa – Pattern S6917A

This free downloadable PDF knitting pattern from Schachenmayr provides instructions for a classic men's raglan jacket (Herrenjacke), knitted in Schachenmayr Universa yarn in the colourway Grau melange (Fb 00197). The design is offered in three sizes — 46/48, 50–54, and 56–60 — making it a versatile project suitable for a range of adult male figures. The finished garment features a structured silhouette with raglan sleeve shaping, a neat neckline, and a ribbed hem band, giving it a timeless, wearable aesthetic ideal for everyday wear.

What Is Being Made

The pattern constructs a full men's knitted jacket worked in separate pieces — a back, a left front panel (and by implication a right front), and sleeves — which are then seamed together. The raglan construction means the sleeves and body are shaped simultaneously through carefully worked decreases, creating a smooth, diagonal shoulder line that is both comfortable and flattering. The jacket includes a ribbed waistband/hem border and is finished with a neckline that is cast off straight once the raglan shaping is complete.

Knitting Techniques Used

• Raglan shaping: Decreases are worked on every second row, alternating between taking off 1 stitch and 2 stitches at a time. This creates the characteristic diagonal raglan line. Specific decrease methods include slipping 1 stitch knitwise, knitting the next stitch, and passing the slipped stitch over (SKP/sl1-k1-psso), as well as knitting 2 or 3 stitches together (k2tog/k3tog), ensuring neat, mirrored shaping on both sides of each piece.
• Armhole cast-off: At a height of 44 cm, stitches are cast off at each side to begin the armhole opening before raglan shaping commences.
• Twisted stitch increase: In the final wrong-side row of the ribbed border, an extra stitch is picked up and knitted twisted from the horizontal thread (lifted increase), adding the correct stitch count before transitioning to the main pattern.
• Edge stitches (Randmaschen): Selvedge stitches are maintained throughout to keep edges neat for seaming.
• Smooth stocking stitch border alongside raglan: Two stitches in plain stocking stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side) are worked adjacent to the selvedge on each side of the raglan shaping, providing a clean, defined decrease line.
• Straight cast-off neckline: Once the raglan shaping is complete, the remaining stitches are cast off straight across for the neckline — 49 (59/61) stitches on the back piece at a total height of 66 (68/70) cm.

Stitches Used

• Grundmuster (main pattern stitch): The body of the jacket is worked in a textured main pattern stitch, worked over a repeat of 10 stitches, repeated 15 (17/19) times across the back and 7 (8/9) times across the left front. The pattern is followed from a chart included in the PDF.
• Bündchen (rib stitch): The lower border/hem is worked on smaller needles in a rib pattern, providing elasticity and a neat finish at the hem edge.
• Stocking stitch (glatt rechts): Used for the two-stitch border columns flanking the raglan decrease lines — knit stitches on right-side rows, purl stitches on wrong-side rows.

Materials Required

• Yarn: Schachenmayr Universa in Grau melange, shade 00197 — a DK weight yarn. Quantities required are 800 g (size 46/48), 850 g (size 50–54), and 900 g (size 56–60).
• Knitting needles: Two sizes of Milward knitting needles are specified: