Kust

Kust Waistcoat by Andrea Rangel

What is Being Made

Kust is a seamlessly constructed knitted waistcoat (vest) designed by Andrea Rangel. This intermediate-level garment is available in eight sizes, ranging from 33.25 inches to 62.5 inches in bust circumference, making it suitable for a wide range of body types. The waistcoat is intended to be worn with 2–4 inches of ease at the bust for a casual, comfortable fit.

Construction Method

The Kust waistcoat is worked seamlessly from the bottom up using a combination of circular and flat knitting techniques. The body is initially worked in the round to the underarms, which creates a smooth, continuous fabric without side seams. Once the underarms are reached, the knitting transitions to working back and forth to shape the front and back panels separately. This hybrid approach balances efficiency with the shaping control needed for a well-fitted garment.

Finishing Techniques

Professional finishing details distinguish this pattern. Shoulder seams are secured using the three-needle bind-off method, a technique that creates a strong, flexible seam ideal for garment construction. After the main knitting is complete, facings are picked up from the finished edges and worked to provide a neat, reinforced finish at openings. The armhole and neckline edges receive a tubular bind-off, a specialized finishing technique that produces a smooth, rounded edge with professional appearance and superior elasticity.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

• Stockinette Stitch: Used for the main body of the waistcoat, creating a smooth, classic fabric surface
• 1x1 Ribbing: Used for ribbed sections, providing elasticity and structure at edges and openings
• Three-Needle Bind-Off: Applied to shoulder seams for a secure, professional join
• Tubular Bind-Off: Used on armhole and neckline edges for a refined, elastic finish

Gauge and Needles

Achieving proper gauge is essential for this pattern. The stockinette stitch sections are worked at a gauge of 25 stitches and 30 rows over 4 inches (10 centimeters) using the primary gauge needle. The ribbed sections are worked at a slightly tighter gauge of 30 stitches and 40 rows over 4 inches (10 centimeters) using a smaller needle size designated as Needle A. This difference in gauge between ribbed and stockinette sections is typical in knitting patterns and accounts for the natural elasticity of ribbed fabric.

Yarn Requirements and Materials

The Kust waistcoat requires fingering weight yarn, with yardage varying by size. The smallest size (33.25 inches) requires 735 yards (675 meters), while the largest size (62.5 inches) requires 1,475 yards (1,345 meters). The pattern is shown worked in Hazel Knits Artisan Sock, a high-quality fingering weight yarn composed of 90% Merino wool and 10% Nylon. This fiber blend provides warmth, breathability, and durability, with each 120-gram skein yielding 400 yards (366 meters). The nylon content adds resilience and helps the garment maintain its shape through wear and washing.

Difficulty Level

Classified as intermediate, this pattern requires knitters to be comfortable with seamless construction, working in the round, and transitioning between circular and flat knitting. Familiarity with specialty finishing techniques such as three-needle bind-off and tubular bind-off is beneficial, though detailed instructions are typically included in the full pattern.