Kurze Halbpatent-Jacke in Schachenmayr Universa - 5223

Kurze Halbpatent-Jacke in Schachenmayr Universa – Pattern Summary (No. 5223)

This downloadable PDF knitting pattern from Schachenmayr presents a short, fitted jacket worked in Half Brioche (Halbpatent) stitch, offering a beautifully textured, semi-structured silhouette. The pattern is available in two sizes — 36/38 and 40/42 — making it suitable for a range of adult figures. The design features subtle waist shaping for a flattering, tailored look, and is knitted in the brand's own Schachenmayr Universa yarn, a versatile DK weight yarn well suited to structured stitch patterns like this one.

What Is Being Made

The finished project is a short women's jacket with a defined waist, worked in pieces and seamed. The construction includes a back panel (Rückenteil), a left front panel (linkes Vorderteil), and a right front panel (rechtes Vorderteil), each shaped individually before being joined. The jacket's cropped length and textured stitch pattern give it a modern, casual-chic aesthetic that works well as a layering piece.

Techniques Used

• Flat knitting in separate pieces: Each section — back, left front, and right front — is worked flat and independently, then seamed together for the finished garment.
• Waist shaping (Taillierungen): Decreases are worked on both sides of the back panel every 18th row, three times, creating a gently nipped-in waist. The decrease method is precise: stitches are slipped, knitted, and passed over in a structured sequence to keep the shaping clean and symmetrical within the Half Brioche fabric.
• Edge stitch management (Randmaschen): The pattern gives detailed, side-specific instructions for handling selvedge stitches on both the left and right front panels. On right-side (Hinreihe) and wrong-side (Rückreihe) rows, the first selvedge stitch is slipped purlwise with yarn in front, and the second is knitted, creating a neat, chain-like edge ideal for seaming or a front band.
• Casting on and ribbing: Each piece begins with a cast-on followed by 2 rows of ribbing (Bündchenmuster), establishing a tidy, elastic lower edge before transitioning into the main Half Brioche pattern.
• Double decrease within Half Brioche: The waist decreases involve slipping one stitch, knitting the next, then passing the slipped stitch over — a technique carefully adapted to work harmoniously within the Half Brioche structure without disrupting the stitch rhythm.

Stitches Used

• Halbpatent (Half Brioche / Fisherman's Rib variant): This is the primary stitch pattern throughout the jacket body. Half Brioche is a knitting technique that combines yarn-overs with slip stitches or knit stitches to create a deeply ribbed, spongy fabric with excellent stretch and visual texture. It is denser and more structured than full brioche, making it ideal for outerwear such as jackets.
• Bündchenmuster (Ribbing): Used for the lower edges of each piece, ribbing provides elasticity and a polished finish at the hem. The pattern specifies the ribbing begins with a selvedge stitch followed by a knit stitch on wrong-side rows.
• Randmaschen (Selvedge/Edge stitches): Consistent edge stitches are worked throughout, slipped purlwise with yarn in front on the first stitch and knitted on the second, ensuring clean, professional edges on every panel.
• Rechts (Knit) and Links (Purl) stitches: Standard knit and purl stitches form the foundation of both the ribbing and the Half Brioche pattern.
• Umschlag (Yarn-over): Yarn-overs are integral to the Half Brioche stitch construction and are also incorporated into the decrease sequences for waist shaping.

Materials

• Yarn: Schachenmayr Universa, a DK weight (double knitting)