Insignia

Insignia Cardigan by Annie Lupton

What is Being Made

Insignia is an open cardigan designed by Annie Lupton of Boho Chic Fiber Co, inspired by modern military style jackets. This intermediate-level knitting project features a sophisticated silhouette with a curved hi-low hemline and shawl collar, making it a versatile layering piece suitable for various occasions and body types. The cardigan is available in eight different sizes, ranging from 34" to 56" bust measurements, ensuring a proper fit for a wide range of knitters.

Construction Method and Techniques

Insignia is knit from the bottom up using a flat knitting method, which allows knitters to work on straight needles and maintain control over shaping throughout the project. The construction process minimizes seaming work—only the shoulders require seaming, making this design more accessible than many traditional cardigan patterns. The sleeves and shawl collar are worked using the pick-up stitch technique, where stitches are picked up from the existing fabric rather than cast on separately. This method creates seamless transitions and professional-looking edges.

The design features top-down set-in sleeves, a construction technique that provides a tailored fit and proper sleeve cap shaping. The shawl collar is finished with an i-cord bind off, a decorative edging technique that creates a neat, durable, and visually interesting border. This combination of techniques makes Insignia an engaging project that develops multiple knitting skills while remaining manageable for intermediate-level crafters.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The primary stitch used throughout Insignia is stockinette stitch, the foundational knit fabric that creates a smooth, classic appearance. The cardigan features a cable motif on the bottom edge, adding visual interest and texture to the lower portion of the garment. This cable detail references the military-inspired design aesthetic while providing a decorative element that distinguishes the piece from basic cardigans. The combination of stockinette and cable work creates visual contrast and demonstrates the designer's attention to both structure and ornamentation.

Materials and Yarn Specifications

Insignia is designed to be worked in Jill Draper Makes Stuff Windham yarn, a merino wool yarn in worsted weight. The yarn shown in the pattern is the Moonless colorway. Worsted weight yarn is a medium-weight option that knits relatively quickly while still providing good stitch definition for cable and stockinette patterns. The yardage requirements vary by size, ranging from approximately 910 yards for the smallest size (34" bust) to 1,550 yards for the largest size (56" bust).

The pattern recommends US 7 (4.5mm) needles, or the size needed to obtain the specified gauge of 16 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch when blocked. Achieving proper gauge is essential for obtaining the correct finished dimensions and ensuring the cardigan drapes appropriately. Merino wool provides excellent drape, breathability, and comfort, making it an ideal fiber choice for a cardigan that will be worn as a layering piece.

Project Summary

Insignia combines modern military-inspired design with accessible intermediate knitting techniques, making it an engaging project for knitters looking to expand their skill set. The mix of stockinette stitch, cable work, pick-up stitches, and i-cord finishing ensures that knitters remain engaged throughout the project while creating a polished, wearable garment. With minimal seaming required and the option to work in eight different sizes, Insignia offers both construction efficiency and inclusive sizing, making it a practical choice for knitters of various body types.