Hemlock Cowl

Hemlock Cowl by Stella Ackroyd

What is Being Made

The Hemlock Cowl is a knitted neck cowl designed by Stella Ackroyd as a downloadable PDF pattern. This is an intermediate-level knitting project that creates a finished cowl measuring approximately 56 inches (142 cm) in circumference and 32 inches (81 cm) in depth when blocked. The cowl is worked in the round from the top down, beginning at the cast-on edge and progressing downward to create a deep, versatile neckwear piece suitable for layering and warmth.

Craft and Techniques

This project uses circular knitting techniques throughout, worked entirely in the round using circular needles. The construction method is top-down, meaning the cowl begins at the neck opening and expands downward. The pattern employs textured stitch patterns as a primary design element, creating visual interest and depth in the finished fabric. Ribbed edging is incorporated at the cast-on edge to provide structure and elasticity at the neck opening.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Hemlock Cowl utilizes fundamental knitting stitches combined into a structured pattern sequence:

• Knit (K) – the basic knit stitch forming the primary fabric
• Purl (P) – used in combination with knit stitches to create textured effects
• Ribbing (P1, K2, P1) – worked for 8 rounds at the cast-on edge to create an elastic, fitted opening
• Make One (m1) – increases worked by picking up and knitting into the back of the strand lying between stitches, used to shape the cowl
• Textured Pattern – a stitch pattern combining knit and purl stitches to create dimensional texture throughout the main body of the cowl
• Through Back of Loops (tbl) – a technique variation that twists stitches for textural effect

Materials and Specifications

The Hemlock Cowl pattern calls for DK weight yarn, specifically Bluefaced Leicester and Gotland blend from Gathered Sheep Yarns. One skein of 100 grams is required to complete the project. The yarn photographed in the pattern sample is shown in The Golden Ring colorway.

Three circular needles in different sizes are required to work this pattern, allowing for gauge adjustments and proper fabric development:

• 40 cm circular needle size 3.25mm (US 3) – used for the initial cast-on and ribbed edging
• 40 cm circular needle size 3.50mm (US 4) – included in the needle set for pattern work
• 40 cm circular needle size 3.75mm (US 5) – the primary needle for working the textured pattern sections

The recommended tension is 22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) when measured over the textured pattern using the 3.75mm (US 5) circular needle. Achieving proper gauge is essential for obtaining the correct finished cowl dimensions.