Heidi Waistcoat in Rowan Merino Aria & Kidsilk Haze (DE) - Downloadable PDF

Heidi Waistcoat by Quail Studio – Detailed Pattern Summary

The Heidi Waistcoat is a beautifully textured knitted waistcoat designed by Quail Studio and published as a downloadable PDF pattern. This intermediate-level project combines two contrasting Rowan yarns to create a richly dimensional fabric, making it an excellent choice for knitters who are comfortable with cable techniques and working with held double strands. The waistcoat is worked flat in separate pieces and features a structured silhouette with ribbed edgings and an elaborate central cable panel.

What Is Being Made

The Heidi Waistcoat is a sleeveless, close-fitting knitted waistcoat designed for women. It is available in nine sizes to fit bust measurements ranging from 71–76 cm up to 152–157 cm, with corresponding knitted bust measurements from 96 cm to 179 cm, offering a comfortable amount of positive ease across the size range. The garment features a classic waistcoat silhouette with defined front panels, ribbed borders, and a striking cable motif as a central design element.

Yarns and Materials Used

The pattern calls for two Rowan yarns, which are held together throughout the project to create a chunky, luxurious fabric with depth and halo:

• Rowan Merino Aria – a chunky-weight yarn, used in colourway Biscuit 48 and Plush 44 (Yarn A), sold in 50g balls. The quantity required ranges from 7 to 15 balls depending on size.
• Rowan Kidsilk Haze – a lace-weight mohair and silk blend, used in colourways Lustre 686 and Liquer 595 (Yarn B), sold in 25g balls. Between 3 and 6 balls are required depending on size.

Holding a strand of Merino Aria together with a strand of Kidsilk Haze is a classic Rowan technique that combines the body and stitch definition of a chunky merino with the soft halo and sheen of a mohair-silk lace yarn. The result is a fabric that is warm, lightweight, and visually rich, with a subtle glow from the Kidsilk Haze enhancing the texture of the cables.

Needles and Tools

• Knitting needles: size 6½ mm – used throughout for the main fabric
• Cable needle (Zopfndl) – required for working the cable crossings

Tension and Gauge

The stated tension (Maschenprobe) is 13 stitches and 20 rows to 10 × 10 cm, measured over stocking stitch (glatt links) using 6½ mm needles and one strand each of Merino Aria and Kidsilk Haze held together. Achieving the correct tension is particularly important in a fitted garment like this waistcoat, as it directly affects the finished bust measurement across all nine sizes.

Techniques and Construction

The Heidi Waistcoat is worked flat in pieces using a combination of the following techniques and stitch structures:

• Ribbing (Ripp) – used at the borders and edges to create neat, elasticated edgings that frame the garment cleanly
• Stocking stitch (glatt re / glatt li) – forms the main body fabric, worked in knit on right-side rows and purl on wrong-side rows
• Cable crossings – the central design feature of the waistcoat, worked using a cable needle. The pattern references specific cable abbreviations including Kr3re (cable cross to the right over 3 stitches) and Kr3li (cable cross to the left over 3 stitches), as well as Z12V and Z12H, indicating 12-stitch cable twists worked to the front and back respectively
• Reverse stocking stitch panels – purl-