Damenpullover in Schachenmayr Silk Wool - 1773

Damenpullover in Schachenmayr Silk Wool – Pattern No. 1773: A Detailed Summary

This free downloadable PDF knitting pattern by Schachenmayr provides instructions for a classic women's pullover sweater (Damenpullover) worked in the luxurious SMC Select Silk Wool yarn. The design is available in five sizes, with all stitch counts and measurements listed sequentially from the smallest to the largest size, separated by hyphens. The finished garment features a sophisticated combination of a half-brioche (Halbpatent) body and a cable panel (Zopfmuster), creating a rich textural contrast that makes this sweater both elegant and cosy. A distinctive front slit neckline adds a refined, contemporary detail to what is otherwise a timeless silhouette.

Yarn and Materials

The pattern calls for SMC Select Silk Wool, a premium chunky-weight yarn with a fibre composition of 64% virgin wool (Schurwolle), 27% silk, and 9% polyamide, with a running length of approximately 120 metres per 50 g. This blend combines the warmth and elasticity of wool with the natural lustre and drape of silk, while the polyamide content adds durability and stitch definition — making it an excellent choice for textured stitch patterns.

• Nachtblau (colour 07102): 350–400–450–500–550 g (main colour for the entire body)
• Jeans (colour 07156): 50 g (accent colour)
• Beige (colour 07104): 50 g (accent colour)

The required needles are from Milward and include:

• Single-pointed knitting needles in sizes 5 and 6 (metric), used for the main body sections
• Two circular needles in size 4 (of any length), used for finishing details such as neckbands or edgings
• A blunt-tipped tapestry needle (Sticknadel ohne Spitze) for seaming and embellishment
• A cable needle (Hilfsnadel) for working the cable crossings

Tension / Gauge

Achieving the correct tension is essential for a well-fitting garment. The pattern specifies two separate tension swatches:

• Halbpatent (half-brioche) on needle size 6: 14 stitches and 30 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm
• Zopfmuster (cable pattern) on needle size 5: 18 stitches and 22 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm

The difference in needle size between the two stitch patterns reflects their inherent differences in density — cables draw in the fabric horizontally, requiring a finer needle to match the gauge of the looser brioche sections.

Stitches and Techniques Used

Halbpatent (Half-Brioche Stitch)

Halbpatent, known in English as half-brioche or fisherman's rib, is a two-row repeat pattern worked over an odd number of stitches. It creates a deeply ribbed, spongy fabric with excellent stretch and warmth. In this pattern it is worked as follows:

• Row 1 (wrong side / Rückreihe): Edge stitch, 1 knit stitch, slip 1 stitch with yarn over (purlwise), 1 knit stitch; repeat from * to *, edge stitch.
• Row 2 (right side / Hinreihe): Edge stitch, 1 purl stitch, knit the slipped stitch together with its yarn over (k2tog), 1 purl stitch; repeat from * to *, edge stitch.

These two rows are repeated throughout. The resulting fabric is thicker and more elastic