Elis

Elis Indian-Cross-Stitch Cowl by Reiko Kuwamura

What is Being Made

The Elis is a knitted cowl designed by Reiko Kuwamura, measuring approximately 22 inches by 8 inches. This accessory piece features a distinctive Indian-cross-stitch pattern that creates visual texture and interest throughout the cowl. The design is worked in the round, making it a seamless, tubular garment suitable for wearing around the neck.

Craft and Primary Technique

This project is created using the knitting craft. The cowl is worked in circular knitting, meaning stitches are cast on and worked continuously in rounds rather than in flat rows. This technique eliminates the need for seaming and creates a smooth, professional finish ideal for a neckwear accessory.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns Used

The Elis cowl incorporates several key stitches and techniques:

• Stockinette Stitch (St st) – The foundational stitch used throughout much of the cowl, created by alternating knit and purl rounds to produce a smooth, V-textured fabric
• Indian-Cross-Stitch (ics[A]) – A decorative stitch technique that creates crossed stitch patterns. This stitch is worked by slipping stitches with the yarn wrapped multiple times around the needle, then dropping those wraps and crossing groups of stitches over one another using the left needle to create the characteristic crossed effect
• Knit with Wrapping (kwp) – A specialized technique where yarn is wrapped three times around the needle for each stitch, creating elongated loops that are later manipulated
• Purl Stitch – Used in alternating rounds to create the stockinette base and add textural variation

Materials: Yarn, Needles, and Notions

Yarn: The pattern calls for 160 yards (150 meters) of Sport or DK weight yarn. The sample shown was created using Yuzawaya's Alpaca Wool, which provides a soft, luxurious fiber content suitable for a cowl worn close to the skin.

Needles: US 8 (5.0 mm) or JPN 10 (5.1 mm) circular needles are required for this project. The needle size is selected to achieve the proper gauge with the sport-weight yarn.

Additional Notions: A tapestry needle is needed for weaving in yarn ends, and stitch markers are essential for tracking the beginning of rounds and marking pattern repeats throughout the knitting process.

Gauge and Sizing

The pattern is designed to achieve a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch. The cowl is cast on with 108 stitches, which is a multiple of 6 to accommodate the Indian-cross-stitch pattern repeats. This yardage and stitch count produce a finished cowl measuring approximately 22 inches in circumference by 8 inches in height.

Difficulty Level

This project is rated as intermediate difficulty. While it uses fundamental knitting techniques like stockinette stitch and circular knitting, the Indian-cross-stitch pattern requires attention to detail and understanding of more advanced stitch manipulation, including yarn wrapping and crossing stitches across one another. Knitters should be comfortable reading pattern abbreviations and working in the round before attempting this design.