Skirt Knitting Patterns

Knitted skirts, and why the yarn matters more than the stitch

A skirt is one of the few knitted garments that has to hang from a single point and stay there all day. That makes fibre choice the first decision, not the last. Wool and wool blends have memory, so ribbing at the waist pulls back after sitting down. Cotton, linen and viscose have drape and coolness but very little recovery, which is why cotton skirts benefit from a firmer tension, a shorter length or an elasticated waistband. Alpaca grows in wear; it is beautiful in a soft gathered shape and unreliable in a fitted one.

Shapes in this collection

• Ribbed pencil skirts, worked in the round with no seams and shaped by needle size rather than decreases.
• A-line skirts, knitted top-down with regular increases so the flare grows evenly.
• Circular skirts and swing shapes, often started at the hem with a large stitch count and decreased towards the waist.
• Pleated and panelled designs, where knit and purl columns create the fold lines.
• Baby and toddler skirts, quick to knit and forgiving of tension, and a good place to test a construction before scaling it up.

Choosing a size that fits

Measure your hips at the fullest point and your waist where you actually want the skirt to sit, which is often higher than you think. Choose the size whose finished hip measurement is closest to yours with two to four centimetres of positive ease for a straight skirt, and match the waist size separately if the pattern allows. Length is the easiest thing to alter: work the body until the skirt reaches where you want it before starting the hem, and add yarn accordingly.

Waistbands that stay up

This is where most knitted skirts succeed or fail. A folded hem casing with elastic threaded through is the most reliable finish and takes twenty minutes. Deep twisted rib worked on needles two sizes smaller is neater but relies on the yarn's springiness. A drawstring in an i-cord is good for children's skirts because it grows with them. Whichever you use, work the waistband at a firmer tension than the body, and try the skirt on before casting off.

Yarn weight, quantity and tension

DK and 4 ply are the usual choices: a skirt has a lot of surface area and chunky yarn quickly becomes heavy enough to pull itself out of shape. Work from the metreage in the pattern rather than estimating from a jumper, and buy a single dye lot. Swatch, then wash and dry the swatch exactly as you will wash the skirt. Many yarns relax by five to ten per cent after their first bath, and on a skirt that shows up as extra length at the hem.

Finishing and care

Block firmly to the finished measurements, particularly on lace panels where the pattern only becomes visible once opened out. Seams should be worked in mattress stitch with the project yarn for an invisible join. A lining, even a simple slip in cotton lawn, prevents the skirt clinging to tights and adds structure to open stitch patterns. Store folded rather than hung, and wash by hand unless the yarn is superwash.

Knitted skirt questions

Which yarn is best for a knitted skirt? A wool or wool-blend DK gives the best combination of memory and drape. Cotton works if the shape is loose or the waistband is elasticated.

Will a knitted skirt stretch out? Some relaxing is normal. Firm tension, elastic in the waistband and a wool-content yarn keep it in check.

Can a beginner knit a skirt? Yes. A ribbed tube skirt worked in the round is mostly plain knitting with a hem to finish.

Do I need a lining? Not always, but it helps with lace, loose gauges and any yarn that feels prickly against the skin.

How do I shorten a pattern? Work fewer rows between the hem and the waist shaping, and check the length against yourself as you go. See more knitting patterns.