Merino Wool Yarn

Why merino behaves the way it does

Merino sheep grow an unusually fine fleece, and fibre diameter is what decides whether wool feels soft or prickly against skin. That fineness is the whole reason merino ended up as the default choice for jumpers worn without a shirt, for baby knits and for hats and cowls. It also keeps the qualities that make wool worth knitting: natural crimp gives elasticity, so ribbing springs back and cables stand up; it holds warmth without weight; and it takes dye vividly, which is why so many hand-dyed skeins are merino-based.

Choosing a weight for your project

• 4 ply: socks, shawls, fine jumpers and baby garments. Slow but the most refined fabric.
• DK: the all-rounder — jumpers, cardigans, hats, blankets and children's knits.
• Aran: cables, winter jumpers and accessories; texture shows up strongly at this weight.
• Chunky and super chunky: fast blankets, oversized cardigans and arm-knitting projects.
• Lace and fingering blends with silk: shawls and wraps that want drape and shine rather than bounce.

Pure merino or a blend

Pure merino gives the softest handle and the best stitch definition, but it is not the most hard-wearing fibre going, because fine fibres abrade more readily than coarse ones. That is why sock yarns almost always pair merino with a proportion of nylon: the nylon takes the wear at heel and toe while the merino keeps the comfort. Merino and silk blends add lustre and drape, and are lovely for shawls and evening tops but with less spring in ribbing. Merino and alpaca is warmer and heavier, and hangs longer than pure merino, so allow for growth in a long cardigan. Superwash merino has been treated so it can be machine washed, and it is the sensible choice for baby knits and anything you are giving to a household that does not hand wash.

Quantities and tension

Buy on metres rather than ball count, since two 50g balls of merino can differ by a hundred metres depending on the spin. As a working guide, a hat is usually one to two balls of DK, a cowl one or two, an adult jumper somewhere between 900 and 1,800 metres according to size and weight, and a lap blanket well over 1,000 metres. Keep to one dye lot and buy a spare ball for a garment. Always knit a tension square, wash it and let it dry before measuring, because merino relaxes and often opens out slightly after its first bath.

Working with merino: pilling, splitting and needles

Merino is smooth and can be a little slippery, and a loosely plied merino splits easily if your needle tips are very sharp; a moderately pointed tip is a good compromise. Pilling is the fibre's main drawback: it happens most where a garment rubs, at cuffs, underarms and where a bag strap sits. A tighter tension and a firmly plied yarn both reduce it substantially, and a fabric comb or a small shaver will keep a jumper looking new for years.

Washing and looking after merino

Unless the ball band says superwash, wash by hand in lukewarm water with a wool wash, moving the garment as little as possible; heat plus agitation is what felts wool, not water. Squeeze rather than wring, roll in a towel to remove the bulk of the moisture, then dry flat and away from radiators. Never hang a wet merino jumper — the weight of the water will lengthen the body permanently. Fold for storage, with a moth deterrent over the summer months.

Merino wool questions

Is merino wool itchy? Generally not. Its fine fibre diameter is why it is the usual recommendation for wearing next to the skin.

Can merino be machine washed? Only superwash merino. Untreated merino should be washed by hand in cool water.

Is merino good for socks? Yes, in a merino and nylon blend. Pure merino wears through at the heel far faster.

Why is my merino jumper pilling? Fine fibres pill where they rub. A firmer tension and a plied yarn help, and a fabric shaver fixes the rest.