Jumper Knitting Patterns

Choosing a jumper you will finish

Most abandoned knitting projects are jumpers, and the reason is almost always a mismatch between the pattern and the knitter's patience rather than a lack of skill. A super chunky drop-shoulder jumper is perhaps twenty thousand stitches; the same jumper in 4 ply is closer to eighty thousand. Neither is harder, but one takes a fortnight and the other takes a season. Deciding honestly how long you want to be knitting before you start browsing patterns is the single most useful thing you can do at this stage.

Weights and what they give you

• 4 ply: the most elegant line and the most stitches. Best for fitted, tailored jumpers you will wear for years.
• DK: the all-rounder, warm enough for winter, fine enough for cables and colourwork.
• Aran: the classic weight for cabled fisherman jumpers, quick and satisfying.
• Chunky and super chunky: weekend knits and oversized shapes, though weight builds up quickly on a long body.
• Mohair held with 4 ply: light, warm and softly haloed, a favourite for relaxed shapes.

Ease, and why the size on the pattern is not your size

Patterns are labelled by finished chest measurement, not by dress or shirt size. Measure a jumper you already like across the chest, double it, and choose the size closest to that number. Zero to five centimetres of positive ease gives a close, classic fit; ten to twenty gives the current relaxed, dropped-shoulder look. If your bust and shoulders differ significantly in size, choose by upper chest and add shaping at the body, since shoulders that fit badly cannot be rescued by blocking.

Necklines, sleeves and small adjustments

A jumper is easy to personalise once you understand which parts are independent of the shaping. Body and sleeve length can be altered freely on almost any pattern, as long as you buy extra yarn. Neckline depth is a simple matter of working the front shaping a few rows earlier or later. Ribbing depth at the hem and cuff can be doubled for a snugger, more traditional look. Save the more complex changes, such as altering armhole depth, until you have knitted a garment straight from a pattern once.

Tension and yarn quantity

Knit a tension square at least 15cm across in the stated stitch pattern, wash it, dry it exactly as you will treat the jumper, and measure the middle. Half a stitch out over 10cm becomes about five centimetres across an adult chest. Purchase your yarn to the metreage in the pattern for your size, in one dye lot, plus a spare ball if you plan longer sleeves. Wool and wool blends have the elasticity a jumper needs; heavy cotton grows with wear, and alpaca drapes but does not spring back.

Finishing well

Block pieces before seaming and everything matches more easily. Use mattress stitch in the project yarn for side and sleeve seams and backstitch across shoulders where firmness helps. Weave ends along the line of the stitches. Wash by hand in lukewarm water unless the yarn is superwash, press out water in a towel and dry flat; a wet jumper hung up will lengthen permanently. Fold for storage rather than hanging, and keep a little leftover yarn for repairs.

Jumper knitting questions

What is the easiest jumper to knit? A drop-shoulder stocking stitch design in aran or chunky, worked flat in four pieces.

How much yarn does an adult jumper take? It varies by size and weight, so always work from the yardage stated in your pattern.

Which size should I knit? The one whose finished chest measurement matches a jumper you already wear and like.

Can I knit a jumper in the round? Yes, top-down raglans and circular yokes are worked seamlessly on a circular needle.

How do I add length to the sleeves? Top-down patterns let you knit to your own measurement; on flat patterns add rows before the cuff. See more knitting patterns.