Embroidery without the shopping list
An embroidery kit removes the two things that stop people starting: transferring a design and choosing threads. The fabric arrives with the design printed or transferred onto it, the stranded cottons are labelled to match the stitch guide, and the needle is already the right size. All that is left is the stitching itself, which is the enjoyable part. Many kits include a hoop, and those that do not assume you have a 15 to 20cm wooden or plastic hoop to hand.
Styles of kit and what they involve
- Printed hoop art: a single motif finished in the hoop it came with; the quickest route to a hung piece.
- Crewel work: worked in wool on linen twill, with rich texture and traditional Jacobean designs.
- Freestyle floral and botanical: the largest group, built on satin, stem, chain and French knot stitches.
- Beginner stitch samplers: designed to teach eight or ten stitches, one band or motif at a time.
- Ribbon and stumpwork: raised, three-dimensional stitching for makers who want a challenge.
The core stitches, and what they are for
Almost every kit is built from the same handful. Back stitch and stem stitch draw lines, stem stitch being the one that curves gracefully. Satin stitch fills a shape with smooth parallel threads and looks best when the stitches are laid side by side without gaps and worked over a padding of split stitch around the edge. Detached chain, also called lazy daisy, makes petals and leaves in one movement. French knots give texture, seed heads and eyes; the trick is two wraps, keeping the working thread taut with your free hand as you pull the needle through. Long and short stitch is how shading is done, and it is worth practising on a scrap before you commit to a large petal.
Getting a clean, professional finish
Tension is everything. Keep the fabric taut as a drum in the hoop, tightening it every so often as it relaxes, and satin stitch stops sinking. Never leave the work in a hoop when you put it away for weeks, because the ring leaves a permanent mark on some fabrics. Start threads with a small away knot cut off later, or a couple of tiny back stitches hidden under the fill, and finish by weaving under existing stitches on the reverse. Work with lengths of about 45cm; longer threads fray and lose their sheen from being pulled through the cloth so many times.
Making the finished piece into something
Most kits are designed to be finished in the hoop, which takes ten minutes: trim the surplus to a few centimetres, run a gathering stitch around the edge, pull it tight over the back and stitch or glue a felt circle to cover it. Larger pieces can be laced over acid-free board and framed with a mount so the glass never presses the stitches flat. Embroidery also makes an excellent gift, and a finished hoop is one of the few handmade presents that needs no wrapping beyond a ribbon.
Care and storage
Rinse out any transfer marks in cool water before pressing, since heat sets them. Press face down on a folded towel. Hang finished pieces out of direct sunlight, which fades stranded cotton over the years. Store work in progress flat and loosely covered rather than crushed in a bag, and keep the thread card intact until the very last stitch, because matching a shade later without the label is far harder than it sounds.
Embroidery kit questions
What is included in an embroidery kit? Printed fabric, threads, a needle and instructions as standard. Hoops vary by kit, so check the listing.
Are embroidery kits good for beginners? Yes — a printed design removes tracing and colour choice, so you can concentrate on the stitches.
How long does a kit take? A small hoop can be finished in an evening or two; crewel and stumpwork pieces run to many weeks.
Do I need a hoop? Strongly recommended. Taut fabric is what keeps satin stitch smooth and stops puckering.
