Cardigan Knitting Patterns

The one garment you will actually wear

A cardigan forgives what a jumper does not: it has an open front, so a centimetre of error across the chest disappears into the button band; it can be worn open or closed, which doubles the range of sizes it flatters; and you can try it on at any point while knitting. That is why cardigans are the most-knitted garment in most people's wardrobes, and why this collection runs from newborn matinee coats to oversized adult coatigans in chunky yarn.

Constructions and what they ask of you

• Top-down raglan: knitted in one piece from the neck, no seaming, and easy to try on as you go.
• Flat in pieces: two fronts, a back and two sleeves, seamed at the end. More finishing, but very portable and stable.
• Circular yoke: a smooth line across the shoulders and the natural home of colourwork, usually steeked or knitted flat at the front.
• Drop shoulder: essentially rectangles, the simplest possible cardigan and currently the most fashionable shape.
• Set-in sleeve: the most tailored look and the most work, with sleeve cap shaping and careful seaming.

Button bands, the part that gives you away

Nothing marks out a hand-knitted cardigan more than a wavy or gaping front band. Pick up stitches at a consistent ratio, commonly three stitches for every four rows on stocking stitch, and count the rows on each front so the two sides match exactly. Work the band on needles a size smaller than the body. Space the buttonholes from the outside in, placing the top and bottom ones first and dividing the remainder evenly, and make the buttonhole slightly smaller than you think, because knitting stretches.

Choosing ease and size

Measure a cardigan you already like across the chest with the fronts closed, double the figure, and match that to the pattern's finished chest measurement. Two to five centimetres of positive ease gives a classic fit that buttons comfortably; ten or more gives the relaxed, open-front look. Sleeve length is the most common alteration, so on top-down patterns simply knit until the sleeve reaches your wrist bone, and on flat patterns add rows before the cuff and buy an extra ball.

Yarn, quantity and swatching

Wool and wool blends hold ribbing and recover after a day of wear, which matters at cuffs and button bands. Cotton is cool but heavy and tends to grow, so keep cotton cardigans short or loose. Alpaca drapes wonderfully in an open shape and sags in a fitted one. Buy to the metreage stated for your size in one dye lot, and add a ball for extra length. Swatch in the stated stitch pattern, wash the swatch, dry it and measure the middle; half a stitch out over 10cm becomes several centimetres across a chest.

Finishing and care

Block the pieces before seaming and everything lines up more easily. Sew buttons on with a shank of a few wraps of yarn so they sit above the band rather than pulling into it. Reinforce the button side with grosgrain ribbon on a heavy cardigan. Wash by hand in lukewarm water unless the yarn is superwash, roll in a towel and dry flat; never hang a wet cardigan by the shoulders. Fold for storage and keep spare buttons somewhere sensible.

Cardigan knitting questions

Which cardigan is easiest for a beginner? A drop-shoulder or top-down raglan in aran weight, with a simple garter stitch button band.

How much yarn does an adult cardigan need? Work from the yardage in the pattern for your size rather than a ball count, and buy one dye lot.

How do I stop the front bands gaping? Pick up stitches at a consistent ratio, use smaller needles, and choose buttons that suit the band width.

Can I knit a cardigan on straight needles? Yes, if it is worked flat in pieces. Seamless top-down designs need a circular needle.

What size buttons should I use? Match the button diameter to the band width, leaving a little band showing on each side. Browse all knitting patterns.