Tocapus Geometric Cardigan

Tocapus Geometric Fairisle Cardigan by Alice Bowen

What is Being Made

The Tocapus Geometric Fairisle Cardigan is a knitted cardigan featuring geometric fairisle colorwork patterning throughout. This intermediate-level garment is designed to fit chest sizes from 34-36 inches up to 46-48 inches, with actual buttoned chest measurements ranging from 39¾ to 50 inches. The cardigan has a body length between 21 and 23 inches depending on size, with consistent 19-inch sleeve length across all sizes. The design incorporates button closures, with 7 or 8 buttons depending on the size selected.

Knitting Techniques Used

This cardigan employs stranded colorwork (fairisle) as its primary decorative technique, which involves carrying multiple yarn colors across rows to create geometric patterns. The garment is constructed using circular needle knitting, worked in the round where applicable, which is a modern approach that reduces seaming. The pattern requires working both larger circumferences and smaller circumferences, utilizing double-pointed needles or preferred small-circumference needles for sections such as sleeves and ribbed edgings.

Stitches Used

• Stocking stitch — the primary fabric structure for the main body and sleeves
• Stranded colorwork stocking stitch — used for the geometric fairisle pattern sections, creating the distinctive Tocapus design
• Ribbing — used for edgings to provide structure and elasticity at cuffs, hem, and button bands

Materials and Specifications

This pattern calls for Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, a 100% cotton yarn in aran weight. The yardage is 85 meters per 50-gram ball. The color palette includes Slate Grey (shade 606) for the main edging, requiring 2 balls, and Pansy Purple (shade 648) for the sleeves, requiring 2 to 3 balls depending on size. Additional yarn quantities for the main body colorwork are specified in the full pattern.

Needles and Tools

The pattern requires two sizes of circular needles: a 3.75mm (US 5/UK 9) circular needle measuring 80 to 100 centimeters long, used for ribbed edgings and initial cast-on, and a 5mm (US 8/UK 6) circular needle in matching lengths, used for the main body and colorwork sections. Matching double-pointed needles in both sizes are recommended for working small circumferences in the round, or knitters may substitute their preferred needles for this purpose. Additional tools include stitch markers and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Tension and Gauge

Achieving correct gauge is essential for proper fit. Over stocking stitch using the 5mm circular needles, the pattern specifies 18 stitches and 24 rows to a 10x10 centimeter square. For the stranded colorwork stocking stitch sections, the gauge is 23 stitches and 23 rows to a 10x10 centimeter square using the same 5mm needles. The tighter gauge in colorwork sections is typical, as carrying multiple colors slightly compresses the fabric.