Southwold + Salle in Mode at Rowan Chunky Wool - Downloadable PDF

Southwold + Salle Sleeveless Long Coat by Quail Studio

What is Being Made

The Southwold + Salle is a sophisticated sleeveless long coat designed by Quail Studio and published by Mode at Rowan. This advanced-level knitting pattern creates a tailored, structured garment that offers versatility as both a statement piece and layering essential. The coat features a classic silhouette with a generous length and is available in nine sizes ranging from 71-76cm (28-30 inches) to 152-157cm (60-62 inches) chest measurements, making it suitable for a wide range of body types.

Garment Construction and Techniques

This is a seamless construction project, meaning the coat is knitted as one continuous piece rather than separate components sewn together. This technique creates a more refined finish and eliminates visible seams, which is particularly important for a garment of this caliber. The pattern uses a broken rib stitch pattern as the primary fabric structure, which creates vertical lines and subtle texture while maintaining excellent drape and flexibility—essential qualities for a long coat that needs to move with the wearer's body.

The front bands are worked using long circular needles measuring at least 100cm in length, allowing for the seamless integration of button bands or closures along the front opening. The construction method requires careful attention to shaping and stitch placement, making this an appropriate project for experienced knitters.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The primary stitch pattern used throughout the Southwold + Salle is the broken rib pattern. This textured stitch combines knit and purl stitches in a broken sequence, creating visual interest while maintaining the elasticity and recovery properties necessary for a structured coat. The broken rib pattern is worked at a tension of 14 stitches and 20 rows to 10 centimeters, measured over the broken rib pattern itself. This relatively loose gauge, combined with the chunky yarn weight, allows the coat to knit up quickly while maintaining excellent structure and drape.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The Southwold + Salle is designed to be knitted in Mode at Rowan Chunky Wool, a substantial yarn weight that creates a warm, durable fabric suitable for outerwear. The pattern specifies yarn quantities based on size, ranging from 11 balls (100 grams each) for the smallest size to 21 balls for the largest size. The photographed sample is worked in Palm 018, a colorway within the Mode at Rowan range.

The pattern requires 7mm (US 10½) needles in two configurations: a standard pair of straight or short needles for the main body sections, and 7mm circular needles measuring at least 100 centimeters in length for working the front bands seamlessly. The use of circular needles for the bands ensures smooth, even tension along the front opening and prevents the stretching that can occur with traditional straight needles on long, narrow sections.

Additional Supplies

Beyond yarn and needles, the pattern requires basic finishing supplies including a stitch holder for temporarily holding stitches during construction and a stitch marker for tracking pattern repeats and shaping increases or decreases throughout the knitting process.

Skill Level and Project Scope

This pattern is classified as advanced difficulty, reflecting the seamless construction techniques, the need to manage multiple stitch patterns simultaneously, and the precision required for proper shaping in a tailored coat. Knitters undertaking this project should be comfortable with reading complex pattern instructions, managing large numbers of stitches, and executing seamless shaping techniques. The finished coat represents a significant time investment and a showcase piece for accomplished knitters.