Isis Tailcoat

Isis Tailcoat by Kari-Helene Rane

What is Being Made

The Isis Tailcoat is an advanced-level knitted cardigan featuring a sophisticated tailcoat silhouette. This garment combines a fitted upper body with a structured lower body, creating an elegant layering piece suitable for both casual and formal occasions. The design is available in seven sizes, ranging from XS to 3XL, with bust measurements from 73 cm (28.75 inches) to 132 cm (52 inches), making it accessible to a wide range of body types.

Construction and Techniques

The Isis Tailcoat employs a two-part construction method, with the lower body and upper body knitted as separate sections that are later joined together. This modular approach allows for precise shaping and fit customization.

• Short Row Shaping: The pattern utilizes short row techniques to create the tailored shaping essential to the tailcoat design. The instructions reference wrap-and-turn short rows as the primary method, with a note that alternative techniques such as German Short Rows can be substituted based on knitter preference and skill level.
• Provisional Cast-On: For the lower body, a provisional cast-on is recommended. This technique allows the cast-on stitches to remain live and accessible, enabling an invisible join between the lower and upper body sections when the two pieces are grafted together at a later stage.
• Stitch Pickup: Careful stitch pickup is emphasized for the upper body, with instructions to pick up stitches directly from the edge of the knitting to prevent puckering and ensure a clean, professional finish at the join.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Isis Tailcoat incorporates fundamental knitting stitches combined in a structured pattern. The setup row for the lower body includes purl stitches, knit stitches, and reverse stockinette sections, creating textural interest and definition. The pattern uses a combination of knit (k) and purl (p) stitches arranged in specific sequences, including ribbed sections created by alternating knit and purl stitches in a (k1, p1) pattern. These classic stitches provide elasticity and structure to the finished garment.

Materials and Yarn

The Isis Tailcoat is designed to be knitted in Purl Alpaca Medium, a luxury yarn composed of 100% English Alpaca. This yarn weight is classified as aran, a medium-weight category ideal for creating garments with good drape and definition. The sample photographed in the pattern was created in the shade Alpaca Storm. Yardage requirements vary by size, with the smallest size requiring 11 balls of 50g (550 meters total) and the largest size requiring 20 balls of 50g (1,000 meters total). The pattern specifies 6mm needles for the lower body construction.

Skill Level

This pattern is rated as advanced difficulty, reflecting the sophisticated construction techniques, precise shaping requirements, and attention to detail needed for successful completion. The combination of short row shaping, provisional cast-on work, and careful stitch pickup makes this an ideal project for experienced knitters seeking a challenging and rewarding garment.