Damenjacke in Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85 - 2113 - Downloadable PDF

Damenjacke in Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85

What is Being Made

This is a women's knitted jacket pattern designed in a classic style using Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85 yarn. The jacket is constructed in one piece for the back and front sections, available in four size ranges: 32/34, 36/38, 40/42, and 44/46. The design features both ribbed and openwork stitch patterns throughout the garment.

Construction and Techniques

The jacket employs a sophisticated construction method where the back and front pieces are knitted together in one continuous piece using circular needles. The pattern incorporates shortened rows with double stitches, a technique that creates shaping without requiring separate seaming. This method allows for seamless transitions between sections and provides professional finishing.

The garment uses a combination of stitch patterns to create visual interest and texture. The construction begins with casting on stitches using circular needles and working in the round, then transitions to flat knitting as the front sections are worked separately using the shortened row technique. This approach minimizes seaming and creates a more polished final garment.

Stitches Used

• Ribbed stitch (Rippenmuster) – Used for the foundational structure and provides elasticity and definition
• Openwork stitch (Lochmuster) – Creates decorative lace-like patterns throughout the jacket
• Garter stitch elements – Implied through edge stitches and finishing details

Materials and Gauge

This pattern is designed for Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85 yarn, a premium merino wool blend. The pattern requires circular needles in sizes 4–5 and 5–6, depending on the stitch pattern being worked.

Gauge measurements are critical for proper fit:

• With needles size 4–5 in ribbed stitch (measured with slight width stretching): 18–19 stitches and 25 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm
• With needles size 5–6 in openwork stitch: 13 stitches and 21 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm

Achieving the correct gauge is essential before beginning the jacket, as it directly impacts the final garment dimensions and fit across all four size options.

Pattern Details

The jacket construction begins by casting on between 144–192 stitches (depending on size) using circular needles in size 4–5. The ribbed stitch pattern is worked first, with edge stitches and specific stitch counts for the beginning and ending of each row. At 28 cm in height, the pattern transitions to working the left front section separately using shortened rows with double stitches, while the remaining stitches are held for later.

The shortened row shaping is applied in multiple stages, with varying numbers of stitches decreased in different rows depending on the chosen size. This creates the necessary shaping for the armholes and neckline without cutting the yarn or creating visible seams. The openwork stitch pattern is incorporated into sections of the jacket to create decorative details and visual texture.