Chamomile Waistcoat in Rowan Cotton Wool (FR) - RB001-00001-FRP - Downloadable PDF

Chamomile Waistcoat by Erika Knight in Rowan Cotton Wool – Pattern Summary

About This Design

The Chamomile Waistcoat is an elegant, wearable knitting pattern designed by Erika Knight and published by Rowan. Released as a downloadable PDF (reference RB001-00001-FRP), this pattern is written in French and presents a beautifully textured sleeveless top — a waistcoat — worked in a distinctive brioche-based stitch pattern. The design is rated intermediate in difficulty, making it an ideal project for knitters who are comfortable with basic techniques and ready to explore more engaging stitch structures.

Garment Overview

The Chamomile Waistcoat is a fitted, sleeveless garment featuring rich surface texture created through a fantaisie brioche stitch (fancy brioche stitch). The pattern includes instructions for five sizes, accommodating a range of chest measurements:

• 81–86 cm
• 91–97 cm
• 102–107 cm
• 112–117 cm
• 122–127 cm

The finished garment length varies by size, with lengths ranging from approximately 108 cm to 152 cm, making this a longer, more dramatic silhouette — closer to a longline waistcoat or vest.

Techniques and Stitches Used

The defining feature of the Chamomile Waistcoat is its use of a point brioche fantaisie — a fancy brioche stitch — which creates a deeply textured, visually striking fabric. Brioche knitting is a technique in which stitches are worked together with a paired yarn-over from the previous row, producing a squishy, ribbed-like structure with excellent drape and elasticity.

Key stitches and techniques featured in this pattern include:

• Brioche stitch (point brioche) — the primary stitch pattern, worked across the body of the waistcoat
• Slipped brioche stitch (m gl/brioche) — stitches are slipped as if to purl with the yarn brought forward under the needle, then the yarn is passed over the needle to create a diagonal yarn-over draping over the slipped stitch
• Double brioche increase (dbl/augm/end/brioche) — a shaping technique used at sleeve tips and edges to increase stitch counts while maintaining the brioche pattern
• Knit and purl stitches (m end / m env) — used in combination with brioche techniques to create the pattern's textured rhythm
• Shoulder seaming — a third needle is used to close shoulder seams neatly
• Stitch markers — placed to denote key shaping points such as armhole divisions
• Casting on mid-row — additional stitches are cast on during construction to shape sleeve extensions or armhole edges

The brioche technique requires careful attention to the yarn-over placement on every row. The yarn is brought forward under the needle before slipping a stitch, then passed back over the top of the needle to sit diagonally across the slipped stitch — a defining movement of the brioche method that gives the fabric its characteristic raised, cushioned appearance.

Construction Details

The waistcoat is constructed in flat pieces and features shaped armholes and shoulders. Shaping is worked using brioche-compatible increases and decreases to ensure the stitch pattern remains uninterrupted throughout. The pattern provides row-by-row guidance for maintaining the point brioche fantaisie through all shaping sections, including at the armhole and shoulder areas. Stitch counts are clearly noted for each size at key construction points.

Yarn and Materials

This pattern is designed specifically for Rowan Cotton Wool, a DK weight yarn. The photographed sample is shown in Pickles 208, a soft, natural-toned colourway that complements the organic texture of the brioche stitch beautifully. The quantity of yarn required varies by size: