Mallow

Mallow Sweater by Marie Wallin

What is Being Made

Mallow is a knitted sweater from the Meadow collection designed by Marie Wallin. This garment is available in five sizes ranging from Small (to fit bust 81-86 cm / 32-34 in) through to XXL (to fit bust 122-127 cm / 48-50 in), making it suitable for a wide range of body measurements. The sweater features a classic construction with a back panel worked in stockinette stitch and decorative ribbing.

Knitting Techniques and Construction

The Mallow sweater employs several key knitting techniques appropriate for an advanced-level knitter. The garment begins with a fancy rib pattern worked over the lower edge, which creates visual interest and helps the sweater sit smoothly against the body. After the ribbed section, the main body transitions into stockinette stitch, the fundamental knit fabric that forms the bulk of the sweater. Strategic increases are incorporated during the pattern to shape the garment and ensure proper fit across different sizes.

The construction method uses a two-needle technique with different needle sizes at different stages. This approach allows the designer to create distinct fabric textures: the smaller needles produce a tighter, more elastic rib, while the larger needles create a more fluid stockinette fabric for the main body.

Stitches Used

• Fancy Rib: A decorative ribbed pattern combining knit and purl stitches with a special twisted stitch technique. The pattern repeats as P2, Tw2R, P2 across the row, creating a textured vertical stripe effect.
• Tw2R (Twisted Knit Two Right): A special abbreviation used in this pattern. This stitch is worked by knitting two stitches together while leaving them on the left needle, then knitting the first stitch again before slipping both stitches off together. This creates a twisted effect that adds dimension to the ribbed sections.
• Stockinette Stitch: The primary fabric for the main body of the sweater, created by alternating rows of knit stitches (on right-side rows) and purl stitches (on wrong-side rows). This produces the smooth, classic knit fabric appearance.
• Increases and Decreases: Strategic shaping stitches are used to adjust stitch counts between sizes and create the proper silhouette.

Materials and Specifications

The Mallow sweater is worked in Jamieson's of Shetland Spindrift, a premium 4-ply yarn. Yardage requirements vary by size: Small requires 11 balls of 25 grams, Small-Medium requires 12 balls, Medium requires 13 balls, Large requires 15 balls, and Extra Large requires 16 balls. The photographed sample is worked in Blue Lovat 232, a soft blue-grey colorway.

Two needle sizes are required to complete this project. The ribbed sections at the lower edge are worked using 2¾mm (UK size 12 / US size 2) needles, which create a tight, elastic fabric. The main body of the sweater is worked using 3¼mm (UK size 10 / US size 3) needles, which produce a slightly more relaxed gauge suitable for stockinette stitch.

Gauge and Tension

Achieving the correct tension is essential for proper fit. The pattern specifies a gauge of 30 stitches and 32 rows to 10 centimeters, measured over both the pattern (fancy rib) and stockinette stitch using the 3¼mm (US 3) needles. Knitters should always swatch before beginning to ensure their tension matches the pattern specifications, as variations in tension can significantly affect the finished garment size.

Difficulty Level

This pattern is rated as advanced, reflecting the techniques and attention to detail required. While stockinette stitch itself is a fundamental knitting technique, the combination of fancy rib with twisted stitches, the need to manage multiple stitch counts across five different sizes, and the shaping techniques employed make this pattern suitable for experienced knitters who are comfortable following detailed instructions and making adjustments for proper fit.