Cross Stitch & Embroidery Thread

Thread types and what they are for

Most cross stitch and surface embroidery runs on stranded cotton: a skein of six loosely twisted strands that you separate and recombine depending on the effect and the fabric count. Two strands over 14-count aida is the standard for cross stitch; one strand gives finer backstitch outlining; three or more fills a design on lower-count fabric or linen. Perle cotton is a twisted, non-divisible thread with a distinct sheen and a rounded, raised look, used whole - it is the standard for redwork, sashiko-style running stitch and hand quilting details. Metallic threads add glint but are more fragile. Silk gives the deepest sheen and the smoothest pull. Variegated and overdyed threads shade gradually along their length, so colour changes happen without you changing thread.

Working with stranded cotton properly

Two habits change the quality of your stitching more than any thread you buy. First, always strip the floss: separate all six strands completely and then put back together the number you need, even if that number is two. Stripping lets the strands lie flat and parallel instead of twisted around each other, and the difference in coverage and sheen is obvious side by side. Second, work with a length of about 45cm. Longer thread frays as it passes through the fabric hundreds of times, and by the end of a long strand the last stitches look visibly duller than the first.

Choosing colours from a chart

• Chart codes are brand-specific. A DMC number and an Anchor number are different systems; conversion charts are approximate, not exact.
• Buy a shade or two extra of the dominant background colour. Running out of the sky halfway through is the classic mid-project setback.
• Check dye lots on large blocks of one colour, as with yarn - a lot change across a big single-colour area can show.
• Variegated threads suit borders, lettering and simple motifs where the gradient can run uninterrupted.
• Metallics are best kept to accents - a star, a crown, a frost effect - rather than large areas.

Taming metallic thread

Metallic thread kinks, twists and shreds, and there are three fixes. Use a shorter length, around 30cm. Use a larger-eyed needle - a chenille or a size 22 tapestry needle - so the eye does not abrade the thread as it passes through the fabric. And let the needle dangle to unwind the twist every dozen stitches. A thread conditioner also helps considerably on longer runs.

Storage and organisation

Skeins tangle the moment they leave their paper bands, and the band carries the shade number, so keep them together. The common systems are bobbins in a compartment box, floss rings with bulldog clips, or plastic sleeves in a ring binder for large collections. Whichever you use, write the shade number on the bobbin before you wind, not after - unlabelled thread is effectively an unknown colour. Keep threads away from direct sunlight, which fades reds and purples fastest, and out of damp, which can spot cotton.

Finishing and washing stitched pieces

Wash a finished piece in cool water with a mild, bleach-free detergent, moving it gently rather than rubbing, and rinse until the water runs clear. Most modern cotton floss is colourfast, but deep reds and blacks can still bleed, so rinse thoroughly and never let a wet stitched piece sit folded. Roll in a towel to remove water, then press face down on a soft towel with a warm iron so the stitches sink into the towel rather than being flattened. Metallic threads should not meet a hot iron at all - press around them or use a pressing cloth.

Embroidery thread questions

How many strands should I use for cross stitch? Two strands over 14-count aida is the usual standard; one strand for backstitch outlines, three for lower-count fabric.

What is the difference between stranded cotton and perle? Stranded cotton separates into six strands; perle is a single twisted thread used whole, with more sheen and a raised finish.

Can I substitute Anchor for DMC? Yes, using a conversion chart, but the matches are close approximations rather than identical shades.

Why does my thread keep twisting? Work shorter lengths, strip and recombine the strands, and let the needle hang to untwist every so often.

Will my thread run in the wash? Modern floss is generally colourfast, but wash in cool water with a mild detergent and rinse thoroughly, especially with deep reds and blacks.