Riley Blake Designs Quilt Patterns

Riley Blake patterns and how they are written

Riley Blake Designs is a fabric house first, and their patterns exist to show a collection off. That is good news for a quilter, because the pattern almost always tells you exactly which fabrics were used, how many of each print, and whether it was built from precuts. You get a proper cutting chart, yardage for each size offered, and a piecing diagram rather than a vague photograph. The range spans quilts you can finish in a weekend and full bed-size projects, alongside smaller makes such as table runners and wall hangings.

Working from precuts

• Charm squares: 5in squares, ideal for simple patchwork and disappearing nine patch layouts.
• Jelly roll strips: 2.5in strips, the fastest route to a finished top through strip piecing.
• Layer cakes: 10in squares, which sub-cut neatly into charms, strips or half square triangles.
• Fat quarters: the most flexible option when a pattern calls for larger pieces or a scrappy mix.

Precuts come with pinked edges, so measure from the middle of the pinking when you cut and stay consistent across the whole project. That single habit prevents most of the block-size drift that shows up at assembly.

Choosing by skill level

If you are new, start with a pattern built from squares and strips: no set-in seams, no curves, no bias edges. Half square triangles are the next step and open up dozens of layouts. Flying geese, sawtooth stars and diamond settings introduce bias, which needs a light touch and no pulling at the iron. Curved piecing and appliqué designs sit at the top of the range. Table runners and wall hangings are the sensible way to try a new technique, because the whole thing is finished before enthusiasm runs out.

Tools and accuracy

You need a rotary cutter with a sharp blade, a self-healing mat, a 6in by 24in ruler and a quarter-inch foot for your machine. Test your seam allowance before starting: sew two 2.5in strips together, press, and measure. If it is not 4.5in across, adjust the needle position rather than trying to sew more carefully. Press seams as you go, and press rather than iron, lifting the iron on and off instead of dragging it, since dragging distorts pieced blocks.

Colour and fabric choice

Riley Blake collections are designed to coordinate, which removes most of the guesswork, but a quilt still needs contrast in value as well as in colour. Photograph your fabric pull in black and white on your phone: if the prints turn into one grey mass, the piecing will disappear in the finished quilt. Add a low-volume background and one darker anchor print. Small-scale prints read as texture from across a room, while large florals need bigger patches to be seen properly.

Backing, batting and finishing

Cut the backing at least 10cm larger than the top on every side, which for anything bigger than a cot quilt means joining widths. Baste with pins, spray or thread, then quilt: straight lines a walking foot can manage, or free motion if you have practised. Binding is where a quilt looks homemade or handmade, so take the time to join the strips on the diagonal and mitre the corners. Wash the finished quilt on a cool cycle with a colour catcher the first time.

Riley Blake quilt pattern questions

Are these patterns free? The collection includes free downloadable PDF patterns as well as printed patterns; each listing states the format.

Do I have to use Riley Blake fabric? No. The yardage works with any quilting-weight cotton, though the pattern photographs use their own collections.

Which pattern should a beginner choose? One built from squares or strips, ideally sized as a table runner or a lap quilt.

How much fabric will I need? Each pattern gives yardage per size; add a little extra if you plan to fussy cut large motifs.

Can I resize a pattern? Yes, by adding or removing blocks or borders, then recalculating the backing and binding to match.