What you can crochet for a pet
This collection splits into three useful groups: things a pet wears, things a pet sleeps on, and things a pet destroys. Dog jumpers and coats are the largest group and the most practical, particularly for whippets, greyhounds and other thin-coated breeds that genuinely feel the cold. Beds, mats and blankets make good use of leftover chunky yarn. Toys are the quickest makes of all and the most likely to need replacing, which is why so many people crochet them from scraps rather than buying them.
Fitting a dog jumper
Three measurements decide everything: neck circumference, chest circumference at the widest point just behind the front legs, and back length from the base of the collar to the base of the tail. Take them with the dog standing, not sitting, and do not pull the tape tight. Back length is where most homemade dog coats go wrong – too long and it catches when the dog squats, so err short. Leg openings should be roomy enough that the garment does not rub in the armpit, which is where sores develop first.
Yarn choice, and safety
- Acrylic or acrylic blends for anything worn or slept on. Machine washable, quick drying and cheap enough to replace.
- Cotton for toys, because it stands up to washing and does not felt into a hard lump.
- Chunky and super chunky for beds and mats, worked at a tight tension so claws do not catch.
- Avoid mohair, boucle and anything with a long halo – the fibres shed and can be swallowed.
- Never use safety eyes, buttons or bells on a dog toy. Embroider features or leave them off entirely.
Making toys that survive
Crochet toys for dogs need a much tighter fabric than amigurumi for children. Drop a hook size or two below the ball band recommendation so there are no gaps for teeth to catch in. Many people crochet around a squeaker or stuff the toy with strips of old fleece rather than polyester filling, which is safer if the toy is opened up. Rope-style toys worked as a long tight tube or a plaited chain last longer than stuffed shapes. Whatever you make, treat it as supervised play and check it regularly; retire it as soon as the fabric opens.
Cats, and lower expectations
Cats are less interested in wearing things and more interested in sitting on them. A flat crocheted mat in chunky yarn, a basket-shaped bed worked in a firm stitch, or a simple ball stuffed lightly with a pinch of dried catnip will get more use than any garment. Work beds in one piece if you can, since seams are the first thing to fail under kneading claws.
Washing and upkeep
Everything in this category will need washing often, so choose yarn on that basis before you choose it on colour. Wash pet items separately on a warm cycle, and dry beds thoroughly – a thick crocheted bed holds water for a long time and will smell if it is put back damp. Keep a note of the yarn used so repairs match, and expect to remake a favourite toy more than once.
Pet crochet questions
Are there free crochet dog toy patterns? Yes, several patterns in this collection are free instant PDF downloads.
How do I measure my dog for a jumper? Measure neck, chest behind the front legs and back length from collar to tail, with the dog standing.
Which yarn is safest for pets? Tightly worked acrylic or cotton. Avoid anything fluffy, and never add plastic eyes or bells.
Will a crocheted toy last? Not indefinitely. Work at a tight tension, supervise play and replace the toy once the fabric starts to open.
Can I crochet a bed for a cat? Yes – a firm chunky mat or basket shape worked in one piece works best and washes easily.