Swirl

Swirl Knit Beret by Mandy Chen

What is Being Made

The Swirl is a knitted beret hat designed by Mandy Chen for Rot & Weiß. This intermediate-level project creates a finished hat with a total diameter of approximately 26 cm (10.5 inches) after blocking, fitting head circumferences of 54–56 cm. The design draws inspiration from ancient Chinese eaves tile patterns, translating the swirl motif into a distinctive beret silhouette. The hat was conceived during Chinese New Year, and the designer chose red as the primary color to honor the cultural significance of the occasion.

Techniques Used

This knitting project employs several key techniques to achieve its signature swirl design. Cable work forms a central element of the pattern, requiring the use of a cable needle to create twisted stitch formations that produce the swirling visual effect. The hat is constructed using circular knitting methods, worked either on 5.5 mm (US 9) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a 32-inch (80 cm) circular needle using the magic loop technique. The beret construction involves working in the round to build the crown and shaping sections. Blocking is an essential finishing step to set the final dimensions and enhance the pattern definition.

Stitches Used

The Swirl pattern incorporates a variety of fundamental and intermediate knitting stitches:

• Stockinette stitch – forms the primary fabric base with a smooth, finished appearance
• Knit and purl stitches – combined to create texture and pattern variation throughout the design
• Knit through back loop (ktbl) – creates twisted stitches for textural interest
• Knit 2 together (k2tog) – a right-leaning decrease used for shaping
• Slip, slip, knit (ssk) – a left-leaning decrease that pairs with k2tog for balanced shaping
• Make one (M) and Make one right (M1R) – increase stitches between existing stitches to add width where needed
• Cable stitches – created with the cable needle to produce the swirling pattern motif

Materials and Gauge

The Swirl calls for 2 balls of Rot & Weiß Aran yarn, with each ball containing 150 meters and weighing 100 grams. Any aran-weight yarn of similar yardage and weight can be substituted to achieve the correct gauge. The pattern specifies 5.5 mm (US 9) needles in either DPN or circular configuration, though the designer notes that needle size should be adjusted as needed to obtain proper gauge.

Achieving correct gauge is critical for this project's success. The stockinette stitch gauge is 16 stitches by 24 rows over a 10 by 10 centimeter swatch, while the brim pattern gauge measures 13 stitches by 12 rows over 7 by 5 centimeters. Additional tools required include stitch markers to track pattern repeats, a cable needle for cable work, and a tapestry needle for weaving in yarn ends during finishing.

Design Inspiration and Color

The swirl motif originates from the decorative patterns found on ancient Chinese eaves tiles, which the designer successfully adapted into a knitted beret form. The red colorway was intentionally selected to reflect the cultural and festive significance of Chinese New Year, during which this hat was designed. The designer tested the pattern with alternative aran-weight yarns including Lana Grossa Bingo and Lana Grossa Alta Moda Alpaka, confirming the design's compatibility with various high-quality aran-weight options.