Sopherl

Sopherl Cardigan by Iscula

What is Being Made

Sopherl is a seamlessly constructed cardigan designed by Iscula, named as an affectionate form for Sophie. This advanced-level knitting project creates a fitted, shaped cardigan worked primarily from the top down, featuring set-in sleeves and a refined silhouette achieved through strategic shaping techniques.

Construction Method and Techniques

The Sopherl cardigan employs a sophisticated top-down seamless construction method that begins with two separate shoulder pieces for the back section. These initial pieces are shaped using short rows to create the necessary contours, then joined together to form the upper back panel. The construction continues downward to the underarms.

The front panels are picked up directly from the cast-on edges of the back piece and worked downward to match the back length at the underarms. Once the fronts and back reach the underarms, all pieces are joined and worked in one continuous piece to the hem, eliminating the need for seaming at the side seams.

The set-in sleeves are picked up from the armholes after the body is complete. These sleeves are shaped using short rows to create a fitted cap, then worked in the round to the cuff. This construction method produces a garment with minimal seaming and excellent fit.

Stitches and Stitch Techniques

The pattern utilizes short-row shaping as a primary technique for creating the contoured shoulder pieces and the fitted sleeve caps. This advanced technique allows for three-dimensional shaping without increases and decreases that would create visible texture changes. The body and sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch, the fundamental knit stitch that creates a smooth, classic fabric suitable for a refined cardigan.

Yarn and Materials

Sopherl is designed to be worked in Gilliatt by De Rerum Natura, a 100% merino yarn that provides 250 meters (275 yards) per 100-gram skein. The sample shown uses the colorway Printemps. Yarn requirements vary by size, ranging from 4 to 6 skeins depending on the finished dimensions, with yardage estimates between approximately 825 and 1500 meters (903 to 1640 yards).

The pattern notes that a similar yarn with the correct gauge can be substituted, though yardage requirements may vary based on the specific yarn chosen and individual knitting tension. Knitters should verify gauge before beginning to ensure proper fit and yardage accuracy.

Needles and Tools

• Circular needles: 4.5 mm (US 7) in 80 cm (32") length for working the body and sleeves

Difficulty Level

This pattern is rated as advanced, reflecting the sophisticated construction techniques required. Knitters should be comfortable with seamless top-down construction, short-row shaping, picking up stitches, and working in the round before attempting this project. The combination of multiple construction methods and precise shaping makes this suitable for experienced knitters.

Yarn Weight and Gauge

Sopherl is designed in worsted weight yarn, which creates a fabric with good drape and structure suitable for a tailored cardigan. Proper gauge is essential for this pattern, and knitters must swatch and measure carefully before beginning, as gauge affects both the finished dimensions and total yardage requirements.