Ribbon Jacket

Ribbon Jacket by Judy Furlong

What is Being Made

The Ribbon Jacket is an elegant knitted cardigan designed by Judy Furlong and originally published in Knitting Magazine, Issue 109 (November 2012). This sophisticated garment features Fair Isle ribbon-trimmed detailing and is constructed as a single-button closure jacket. The design includes a structured collar, functional pockets, full-length set-in sleeves, and decorative binding applied to the collar, sleeves, body, and pocket tops. The jacket is available in ten sizes to suit bust measurements ranging from 82 cm (32 inches) to 128 cm (50 inches), with finished lengths from the nape to lower edge measuring between 56 cm and 60 cm.

Construction Techniques

The Ribbon Jacket employs a strategic construction method that maximizes efficiency and creates clean seams. The body is knitted in one continuous piece up to the armhole depth, after which the fabric divides to accommodate separate front and back sections. This approach reduces seaming and creates a seamless transition from the lower body to the armhole shaping. The collar is knitted as a separate component and then attached to the finished neckline. All binding details—including those on the collar, sleeves, body edges, and pocket tops—are created by picking up stitches directly from the finished edges, a technique that ensures professional finishing and structural integrity.

The Fair Isle ribbon trim is a key design element that requires careful yarn management. To prevent long floats (loose strands of yarn carried across the back of the work) between Fair Isle motifs, the pattern recommends weaving in the contrast yarn at the back of the work. This technique, also called stranding or weaving in, involves catching the unused yarn within the stitches as you work, creating a more elastic fabric and preventing snagging.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

While specific stitch counts and row gauges are detailed within the full pattern, the Ribbon Jacket utilizes fundamental knitting stitches combined with Fair Isle colorwork. Fair Isle is a traditional technique that involves working with two colors in the same row, creating intricate geometric or decorative patterns. The contrast between the main yarn (Yarn A) and the contrast yarn (Yarn B) produces the distinctive ribbon-trimmed appearance. The binding sections are created through a picked-up stitch method, which typically involves knit stitches worked in a ribbed or garter stitch formation to create a neat, professional edge finish.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The Ribbon Jacket is designed to be worked in DK weight yarn, a medium-weight yarn that provides excellent stitch definition for Fair Isle colorwork while remaining lightweight enough for comfortable wear in a tailored jacket. DK weight yarn is ideal for this project because it allows the Fair Isle patterns and ribbon trim details to display clearly without excessive bulk. The pattern requires both a main yarn (Yarn A) and a contrast yarn (Yarn B) for the Fair Isle elements and ribbon detailing.

Knitting needles appropriate for DK weight yarn are required; the specific needle size will be determined by the desired gauge as specified in the full pattern instructions. Appropriate needle size ensures proper stitch definition and fabric drape, which are essential for achieving the elegant, structured appearance of this jacket design.

Difficulty Level

The Ribbon Jacket is classified as an intermediate knitting project. This difficulty rating reflects the combination of techniques required: working Fair Isle colorwork with two colors, managing yarn floats and weaving in techniques, constructing a garment with set-in sleeves, shaping armholes and necklines, and finishing with picked-up stitch binding. While not a beginner project, the Ribbon Jacket is accessible to knitters who have mastered basic garment construction and are ready to expand their skills into colorwork and more complex finishing techniques.