Patch design jacket

Patch Design Jacket by Dorothy Shaw

What is Being Made

This is a patchwork-style jacket knitted from super-chunky wool yarn, designed by Dorothy Shaw as an independent designer project. The finished jacket features generous dimensions with a chest and hip circumference of 104cm and a total length of 98cm, making it a substantial, statement-making outerwear piece. The jacket includes set-in sleeves measuring 62cm to the shoulder and 52cm to the underarm, with a cuff circumference of 27cm. The neckline wraps over and measures 68cm in circumference, creating a distinctive design element. The underarm circumference is 58cm, providing comfortable ease through the torso.

Materials Required

This project requires 13 balls of 100g super-chunky wool yarn, providing substantial yardage for the oversized construction. Additional notions include 3-4 buttons or toggles measuring 4.5cm in diameter, which serve as functional closures. A sliding buckle or scarf clip with a 5cm inner diameter bar is also needed—the pattern suggests using coconut shell versions such as those crafted by Chris Masters. The super-chunky weight yarn creates quick knitting progress and a bold, textured finished fabric.

Tools and Equipment

The pattern calls for a pair of 8mm single-pointed needles at least 30cm in length for the main knitting construction. An 8mm crochet hook is also required, indicating that some finishing or edging details are worked using crochet techniques rather than knitting alone. This combination of tools allows for both traditional knit construction and crochet embellishment or finishing.

Knitting Techniques and Stitches

The jacket employs several fundamental knitting techniques appropriate for a beginner-level project. The primary fabric is worked in stocking stitch (alternating knit and purl rows), which creates a smooth, classic knit fabric surface. Garter stitch (knitting every row) is also used, likely for cuffs, bands, or textural contrast, as it produces a reversible, ridged fabric with excellent elasticity and structure.

The pattern references a basket-weave stitch, which creates a woven appearance through strategic yarn manipulation and stitch placement. This technique adds visual interest and textural depth to the patchwork design aesthetic. Additional techniques include 1 x 1 ribbing (alternating knit and purl stitches in single columns), which is typically used for fitted cuffs and neckbands to provide elasticity and recovery.

Standard abbreviations used throughout the pattern include increases (incr.), slip stitches (Sl), and pass slip stitch over (psso) techniques for shaping. The pattern uses directional notation including right-hand side (RHS) and left-hand side (LHS) references, as well as right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) designations for proper fabric orientation during construction.

Gauge and Tension

The pattern specifies precise tension measurements to ensure proper finished dimensions. In stocking stitch, the gauge is 9.5 stitches and 13 rows per 10cm. For garter stitch sections, the gauge is 9.5 stitches and 20 rows per 10cm. These measurements are critical for achieving the intended jacket size and fit, and knitters should swatch and measure before beginning the main project.

Design Features

The patchwork-style construction suggests that the jacket is assembled from multiple knitted sections or panels with contrasting stitch patterns or textures, creating a visually segmented appearance. The combination of stocking stitch, garter stitch, and basket-weave techniques allows for creative patchwork effects. The wrap-over neckline and button or toggle closures provide both functional and decorative elements, while the sliding buckle or scarf clip adds an additional fastening option and design detail.

Skill Level

This project is rated as beginner difficulty, making it accessible to knitters new to jacket construction. The super-chunky yarn weight works up quickly, reducing the time investment and allowing beginners to see progress rapidly. The straightforward stitch techniques—primarily stocking stitch, garter stitch, and basic ribbing—do not require advanced shaping or color work skills, though the finished piece delivers impressive visual impact through texture and patchwork design.