Mantel mit Strukturmuster & Trompetenärmeln in Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85 - S9263 - Downloadable PDF

Mantel mit Strukturmuster & Trompetenärmeln – Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85 (Design S9263)

This free downloadable knitting pattern (Design S9263) from Schachenmayr guides knitters through the construction of an elegant, structured coat featuring a textured stitch pattern and dramatic trumpet sleeves. Available in five sizes — XS, S, M, L, and XL — this is a substantial, wearable garment project suited to knitters with intermediate to advanced experience. The combination of a sophisticated relief stitch pattern, a two-colour jacquard section, and shaped trumpet sleeves makes this coat a standout piece in any handknitted wardrobe.

What Is Being Made

The finished project is a full-length coat (Mantel) worked in pieces — a back panel (Rückenteil), front panels, and set-in sleeves with a flared trumpet shape. The coat features classic tailored shaping including hip shaping (Hüftrundung) and armhole shaping (Armausschnitte), giving it a structured, fitted silhouette. The trumpet sleeves add a fashion-forward, dramatic flair to an otherwise timeless garment shape.

Yarn and Materials

The pattern is written exclusively for Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 85, a 100% pure new wool (Schurwolle) yarn sold in 50 g balls with approximately 85 metres per ball. This is an aran-weight yarn, giving the finished coat warmth and excellent stitch definition — particularly important for showcasing the textured structural pattern.

• Colour 00202 (Natur / natural) — the primary colour, requiring 16 / 18 / 19 / 21 / 22 balls depending on size
• Colour 00232 (Weinrot / wine red) — a contrast colour, requiring 5 balls across all sizes
• Colour 00237 (Pink) — a secondary accent colour, requiring 2 balls across all sizes

The pattern advises knitters to use only balls from the same dye lot (Farbpartie) to ensure colour consistency throughout the finished coat. Yarn consumption may vary between individuals.

Needles and Notions

• Milward knitting needles, 4.5 mm
• 4 buttons — specifically Jim Knopf, Art. 11957, 44", Colour 16 Fuchsia, available from specialist retailers

Tension / Gauge

Achieving the correct tension is essential for a well-fitting coat. The stated tension is 18 stitches and 27–28 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm worked in the structural stitch pattern (Strukturmuster) on 4.5 mm needles. Knitters should always work a tension swatch before beginning and adjust needle size as needed.

Techniques Used

This pattern draws on a range of knitting techniques, making it a rewarding project for those looking to develop their skills:

• Kraus rechts (garter stitch) — every row is knitted on the right side; used for edging and border sections
• Strukturmuster (textured / relief stitch pattern) — worked from a chart (Strickschrift), with a 10-stitch repeat across a 20-row sequence that is continuously repeated; the chart is read from right to left on right-side rows (Hinreihen) and from left to right on wrong-side rows (Rückreihen)
• Jacquardmuster (two-colour jacquard pattern) — worked in glatt rechts (stocking stitch: knit on right side, purl on wrong side) following a separate chart; in two-colour rows, both yarns are carried simultaneously; edge stitches (Randmaschen) are added on both sides
• Hip shaping (Hüftrundung) — stitches are decreased at