Longjacke mit Rippenmuster in Schachenmayr Trachtenwolle - S9393 - Downloadable PDF

Longjacke mit Rippenmuster – Free Knitting Pattern S9393 in Schachenmayr Trachtenwolle

This free downloadable PDF pattern, design S9393, guides knitters through the construction of a stylish long jacket (Longjacke) featuring an all-over rib pattern, crafted in Schachenmayr Trachtenwolle. The design is rated beginner (Schwierigkeitsgrad: einfach), making it an accessible project for those who are comfortable with basic knitting techniques but looking to build confidence with garment shaping. The jacket is worked in a rich Kirsche (cherry red, colour 00131) colourway and features a flattering silhouette with front panels that are intentionally cut slightly longer and wider than the back, shifting the shoulder seams gently toward the back and creating a neat built-in underlap — a thoughtful design detail that adds a polished, tailored finish.

Garment Overview

The Longjacke is a long, relaxed jacket worked in separate pieces — a back panel, a left front panel, and a right front panel — which are then seamed together. The front panels each include an integrated inner pocket (Innentasche), worked as a separate pocket lining and neatly joined to the main fabric. A single decorative button closes the jacket, adding a clean, minimalist focal point. The pattern is sized across three size ranges: S-M / M-L / L-XL, making it suitable for a wide range of body types. All size-specific instructions are clearly separated by forward slashes throughout the pattern.

Techniques Used

• Casting on (Anschlagen): The back begins with 96/110/124 stitches; each front panel begins with 56/63/70 stitches, establishing the foundation for each garment piece.
• Garter stitch border (Kraus rechts): The lower 25 cm of every panel is worked in garter stitch — knitting every stitch on every row in both directions — creating a firm, non-curling hem that frames the ribbed body beautifully.
• Rib pattern (Rippenmuster): Above the garter border, the main body transitions into a four-row rib pattern that gives the jacket its distinctive textured surface. This is a simple but effective stitch pattern that adds visual interest and a degree of elasticity to the fabric.
• Armhole shaping (Armausschnitte): Stitches are bound off in a stepped sequence on both sides to create smooth, rounded armhole curves. For example, on the back, this involves binding off 2 stitches twice and then 1 stitch nine times per side (with variations per size), a classic method for achieving a neat set-in sleeve opening.
• Shoulder shaping (Schulterschräge): Worked with stepped bind-offs across both shoulders to create a natural slope, ensuring a comfortable and professional fit at the shoulder seam.
• Neckline finishing (Halsausschnitt): After shoulder shaping, the remaining centre back stitches are bound off to form the back neckline.
• Pocket opening (Tascheneingriff): On the left front panel, stitches are divided in the first rib pattern row to create a horizontal pocket opening. A set number of stitches are bound off mid-row, and the remaining stitches are placed on hold. A separate inner pocket lining is then knitted and rejoined, a technique that produces a clean, functional inseam-style pocket.
• Seaming: Finished panels are joined using a Wollsticknadel (tapestry needle), with the intentional front-panel offset creating the built-in underlap and backward shoulder seam shift.

Stitches Used

• Kraus rechts (Garter stitch): All stitches knitted on every row in both directions. Used for the lower hem border and the inner pocket lining.
• Glatt rechts (Stockinette stitch / smooth right): Knit stitches on right-side rows, purl stitches on wrong-side rows. Referenced within the pattern construction.
• Glatt links (Reverse stockinette): Purl stitches on right-side rows, knit stitches on wrong-side rows. Used as a component of the four-row