Lilja

Lilja Bias Knit Shawl by Vanessa Ewing

What Is Being Made

Lilja is a bias knit shawl designed by independent designer Vanessa Ewing. This triangular wrap features an expansive wingspan of 73 inches (185 cm) with a depth of 14 inches (35.5 cm), making it a generous accessory suitable for layering or draping. The shawl draws inspiration from lily flower petals, incorporating ever-growing twisted stitches that create an ornately textural design. Both sides of the finished shawl are uniquely beautiful and intricately patterned, offering visual interest from multiple angles.

Techniques Used

This intermediate-level knitting project employs bias knitting construction, a technique that creates diagonal fabric growth and inherent stretch. The shawl incorporates cable techniques and twisted stitch work throughout, which contribute to the dimensional, petal-like appearance. Increases are strategically placed to create the expanding triangular shape characteristic of bias knit shawls. The design requires understanding of directional stitch manipulation and cable placement to achieve the ornate textural effects on both sides of the fabric.

Stitches Used

The primary stitch pattern is twisted rib, which forms the foundation of the shawl's textural quality. The stitch guide includes specialized cable abbreviations:

• 1/2 LC (Left Cable): Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold to front, knit 1 through the back loop, purl 1, then knit 1 through the back loop from cable needle
• 1/2 RC (Right Cable): Slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold to back, knit 1 through the back loop, then purl 1, knit 1 through the back loop from cable needle
• m1R (Make 1 Right): With left hand needle, place the tip of the needle from back to front into the bar between stitches on the needle, then knit this stitch to create an increase

Knitting through the back loop (k1tbl) appears frequently, creating the twisted effect that gives the shawl its distinctive appearance. The combination of twisted knits, purls, and cable crosses produces the ornate, ever-growing pattern.

Materials and Tools

This shawl requires 462 yards (423 meters) of DK weight yarn, which translates to approximately 2 skeins when using standard 231-yard skeins. The pattern was tested with Cape May Fiber Co DK Merino Superwash in the colorway Golden Sea Grass, a tonal yellow with black and grey speckles. This yarn is 100% Superwash Merino Wool, offering durability and easy care.

Essential tools include a US Size 8 (5 mm) circular knitting needle measuring 24 inches (81.28 cm), which accommodates the growing number of stitches as the bias shawl expands. Additional supplies needed are a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and scissors for finishing.

Gauge and Finishing

The pattern specifies a gauge of 21 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in twisted rib stitch after blocking. Achieving proper gauge is essential for obtaining the correct finished measurements. Blocking is a crucial finishing step that sets the stitches, evens the fabric, and allows the ornate textural elements to fully develop and display their dimensional qualities.